Clutch compoentry

[adamnreeves]

I have just acquired a manual R380 2WD gearbox, remote gearchanger and associated bellhousing. I have a DJE lightened flywheel and an uprated 9.5" clutch and pressure plate. I also have the clutch release bearing.

I think I therefore I need clutch slave cylinder & clutch release fork to complete.

Q1. Is there anything else I need?
Q2. I understand there are different slave cylinders & forks, which ones do I need?
Q3. I have the spigot bearing, is this pressed into the crank with a drift?

- Adam.

[ian.stewart]

There is only one bore for the slave cylinder,--0.875", the same all accross the range, and the V8 used a --0.625 master cyl bore,

Yes the spigot bearing should drift in, but check, I know af an instance where a auto crank that would not take a spigot bearing without machining,

If there is a v8 clutch arm and ball/fulcrum height difference I have never come accross it [yet], I think the confusion may come from 4 & 6 cyl cars may use different arms and length balls to get the position correct for their application as they use different clutches, and people may have got parts mixed as they all look similar.
you wll also need a push rod, but you can make one of those, dead easy.

I think I may have misquoted the bore sizes of the slave cylinder before, if I have I appologise for ant confusion I may have caused,
Ian

[adamnreeves]

Thanks Ian, I shall get on and source those parts. - Adam

There is only one bore for the slave cylinder,--0.875", the same all accross the range, and the V8 used a --0.625 master cyl bore,

Yes the spigot bearing should drift in, but check, I know af an instance where a auto crank that would not take a spigot bearing without machining,

If there is a v8 clutch arm and ball/fulcrum height difference I have never come accross it [yet], I think the confusion may come from 4 & 6 cyl cars may use different arms and length balls to get the position correct for their application as they use different clutches, and people may have got parts mixed as they all look similar.
you wll also need a push rod, but you can make one of those, dead easy.

I think I may have misquoted the bore sizes of the slave cylinder before, if I have I appologise for ant confusion I may have caused,
Ian

[chodjinn]

Adam I have a brand new spigot bush, pushrod I bought a few weeks ago but are now spare.

Also have a clutch release arm and pivot.

Interested? PM me

[adamnreeves]

Nooooo!!! I ordered from Rimmers at 12:11:32 !!

Adam I have a brand new spigot bush, pushrod I bought a few weeks ago but are now spare.

Also have a clutch release arm and pivot.

Interested? PM me

[v8alex]

You will also need two slipper pads that fit in the clutch fork.

You will need a release bearing and bearing housing - there are different types. I used a cast iron housing for my R380

The spigot bearing will need to be a thick walled one and you are right in needing a drift to get it in the rear of the crank about flush, or no more than 1mm-ish recessed.

There are a number of different lengths of pivot post and getting the correct length is critical as this determines the amount of pushrod that sticks out the front. Too much and you'll not get the slave cylinder on. With it all assembled, the pushrod should protrude the face of the bellhousing by about 16mm. You could of course shorten the pushrod, but need to get the correct angle of attack on the clutch fork during operation.

I had a nightmare with this believe me. Take a look at my website 3rd Feb 07. There's also some pics of various pivot post sizes. I had the engine / gearbox in and out of the car 3 times in the end (yes I should have checked it all before putting it in )

Hope this helps

Alex

[adamnreeves]

I have ordered the slppper pads. I looked at the exploded view of the clutch assembly stuff on the Rimmers web site for the SD1 and ordered every bit! Cost a fortune! I was hoping to do this over this weekend with a hope to installing the engine.

BTW, do I need any gaskets, i.e. bellhousing to gearbox or to block or is it jsut RTV sealant?


P.S. I have the release bearing already. I got this from RPI via Ebay a month ago. Not seen one before, I think it has a carrier but it is brown in colour and looks like plastic!

You will also need two slipper pads that fit in the clutch fork.

You will need a release bearing and bearing housing - there are different types. I used a cast iron housing for my R380

The spigot bearing will need to be a thick walled one and you are right in needing a drift to get it in the rear of the crank about flush, or no more than 1mm-ish recessed.

There are a number of different lengths of pivot post and getting the correct length is critical as this determines the amount of pushrod that sticks out the front. Too much and you'll not get the slave cylinder on. With it all assembled, the pushrod should protrude the face of the bellhousing by about 16mm. You could of course shorten the pushrod, but need to get the correct angle of attack on the clutch fork during operation.

I had a nightmare with this believe me. Take a look at my website 3rd Feb 07. There's also some pics of various pivot post sizes. I had the engine / gearbox in and out of the car 3 times in the end (yes I should have checked it all before putting it in )

Hope this helps

Alex

[katanaman]

you don't use gaskets or sealant on the bellhousing either end, sounds like you have the later release bearing.

[adamnreeves]

Oh Okay! Later release bearing is that good, bad or indifferent? will it fit my SD1 type release arm?

you don't use gaskets or sealant on the bellhousing either end, sounds like you have the later release bearing.

[chodjinn]

The later type release bearings are self-centering. I have a brand new one I got off RPi as well, they said it should fit the SD1 LT77 gearbox and flywheel/clutch combi I have.

As it stands I'm going to use all the original stuff first as it is already fitted together and I know it works. just hoping it works with my new AP clutch. (I bought all the bits for the clutch thinking I didn't have them, then when i went to clean the gearbox, lo and behold they they were inside the bellhousing! Spent over a ton unnecessarily!!!).

[adamnreeves]

Oh dear, sounds familiar. What is p*s*ing me off at the moment. Is that I am essentially building a kit via mail order! The courier costs are eating my budget!

The later type release bearings are self-centering. I have a brand new one I got off RPi as well, they said it should fit the SD1 LT77 gearbox and flywheel/clutch combi I have.

As it stands I'm going to use all the original stuff first as it is already fitted together and I know it works. just hoping it works with my new AP clutch. (I bought all the bits for the clutch thinking I didn't have them, then when i went to clean the gearbox, lo and behold they they were inside the bellhousing! Spent over a ton unnecessarily!!!).

[adamnreeves]

Starting a new thread for this.

Was hoping to get me engine installed today but I have just discovered whilst assembling the clutch release bearing and release arm that they do not want to play with each other.

the width of my release bearing carrier at the point where the slipper pads are installed is 1.650". The width of the release arm where the slipper pads are installed is 1.915". Doesn't seem to lign up from what I can tell either.

I have used a 2WD R380 box and bellhousing. The clutch release bearing is the new type as supplied by RPI.

So is the arm or the release bearing the wrong item?