Wots with all the spacers !!
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Wots with all the spacers !!
Hi guys, be putting the 4 speed on the back of the rover later this week, when i had the torque convertor, flywheel and bag of bits, theres a lot of spacers in there ! now i got a drawing that shows me where the all go, i just wanted to know why ??? could they not have just made a fatter torque convertor or longer lugs? john
So thats where it went !
Here they are Chris, seems straight forward now i've looked at them !! john
http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/21 ... good-times
http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/21 ... good-times
So thats where it went !
I recognise all those bits.
None of those are shims.
The shims go between the end of the crankshaft and the plate that bolts to it. What you are supposed to do is have the torque converter a small distance out from fully home - I forget the exact dimensions. And this is achieved with the shims.
If it's not far enough in it risks damaging the drive to the gearbox oil pump.
It's all in the Land Rover V8 rebuild manual.
Chris.
None of those are shims.
The shims go between the end of the crankshaft and the plate that bolts to it. What you are supposed to do is have the torque converter a small distance out from fully home - I forget the exact dimensions. And this is achieved with the shims.
If it's not far enough in it risks damaging the drive to the gearbox oil pump.
It's all in the Land Rover V8 rebuild manual.
Chris.
--
Series IIA 4.6 V8
R/R P38 4.6 V8
R/R L405 4.4 SDV8
Series IIA 4.6 V8
R/R P38 4.6 V8
R/R L405 4.4 SDV8
I can't seem to find it in my overhaul manual (at least, how I remember it).
But before I had the manual, I attached the whole drive plate assy to the engine, and fitted the torque converter into the gearbox. Then when the engine was bolted to the 'box, I measured the gap between the torque converter and drive plate. I judged it to be small enough but not a tight fit, and went with it. This was some year ago, and still OK.
The other way is to accurately measure it before putting the engine in and make the same assessment on the results.
Chris.
But before I had the manual, I attached the whole drive plate assy to the engine, and fitted the torque converter into the gearbox. Then when the engine was bolted to the 'box, I measured the gap between the torque converter and drive plate. I judged it to be small enough but not a tight fit, and went with it. This was some year ago, and still OK.
The other way is to accurately measure it before putting the engine in and make the same assessment on the results.
Chris.
--
Series IIA 4.6 V8
R/R P38 4.6 V8
R/R L405 4.4 SDV8
Series IIA 4.6 V8
R/R P38 4.6 V8
R/R L405 4.4 SDV8
Distance between flange of engine (where it mates with g/box bellhousing)and back (engine side) of flywheel is supposed to be 8 - 8.2mm, adjusted by different crankshaft shim sizes. Once assembled, there should be 2mm (according to Ashcroft) between flexplate and torque convertor feet.
Why have I got 4mm then . Not sure how long the oil pump drive is and whether I risk unseating the torque convertor?
Help please as I really don't want to extract everything again.
Why have I got 4mm then . Not sure how long the oil pump drive is and whether I risk unseating the torque convertor?
Help please as I really don't want to extract everything again.
Just been to local (decent) Landy independent and he said that the gap seems to range from 2 - 5mm and they haven't had any problems yet (famous last words). Washers were a thought. Ashcrofts suggested putting another spacer on the crank, which I am a bit wary of as the crank measurement is fine.
Think I will just run with it as is, the tapered nose on the TC is presumably to stop it coming too far out anyway?
Think I will just run with it as is, the tapered nose on the TC is presumably to stop it coming too far out anyway?