Hey guys, i've just got my hands on a rr classic chassis for a build i've got planned, i'm looking a binning the standard rv8 and using a well tuned lexus v8 twin turbo set up and lexus box, sort of a supersonic 4x4 is what i'm going for. There's a few things i've got questions about and would appreciate feedback.
1. Any idea what transfer box if any can take abuse up to 600bhp maybe more?
2. I'd like to save some weight and improve ride quality by dumping the solid axles and use some sort of irs and ifs, what sort of abuse does the jag irs take? and could i use one for the fwd if i flipped it over? or am i best using diffs off a more modern car, scooby etc?
Obviously it not gonna be as simple as it sounds and a large amount of fab work is going to be required, i may have to just settle with rwd and use the lexus drivetrain, but would like the 4x4, certainly assist with the grip hey??!!
Any thoughts or recommendations you may have then speak up, also bear in mind I have no intention of going offroad in this car, so removing the classics offroad ability will not cause me to loose any sleep!!
cheers
Range Rover Classic with a bite
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Re: Range Rover Classic with a bite
I Wouldn't worry too much about the transfer box, as it seems quite tough.
I'm running a twin turbo 5.7 chevy (low boost) through the std landrover LT230 box. Its the autobox that i seem to have more problems with. (TH700r4)
There's a guy in Oz (with yet another dakar) who's currently building a supercharged lexus v8. He's using the torqueflyte TF727 with an adapter.
There is also a 440ci big block also on the std transfer box. That uses the TF727 box also.
I know of someone else who's building a 4x4 bugggy using a LS1 and a 4L80e coupled to the LT230 - which i think is the ideal box for big power RR conversions.
Cant recommend diffs/axles - but using a RR chassis seems a heavy starting point if you don’t intend to use any of the other parts. Chassis twist is significant on mine when the power hits. How much "bite" do you want? - Mine keeps up with a Jaguar XJR, and doesn't really need any more power thank you! (regular change of pants advised)
Also note all the above conversions are on auto's, which seems to be easier on the driveline.
I'm running a twin turbo 5.7 chevy (low boost) through the std landrover LT230 box. Its the autobox that i seem to have more problems with. (TH700r4)
There's a guy in Oz (with yet another dakar) who's currently building a supercharged lexus v8. He's using the torqueflyte TF727 with an adapter.
There is also a 440ci big block also on the std transfer box. That uses the TF727 box also.
I know of someone else who's building a 4x4 bugggy using a LS1 and a 4L80e coupled to the LT230 - which i think is the ideal box for big power RR conversions.
Cant recommend diffs/axles - but using a RR chassis seems a heavy starting point if you don’t intend to use any of the other parts. Chassis twist is significant on mine when the power hits. How much "bite" do you want? - Mine keeps up with a Jaguar XJR, and doesn't really need any more power thank you! (regular change of pants advised)
Also note all the above conversions are on auto's, which seems to be easier on the driveline.
I assume from your post eliot, that you are still using the standard axles, props and diffs? do you know if these other builders you mention are sticking with the same axles, props and diffs or have they plumbed for something else?? I was intending on using the standard lexus auto box as there good for the power so i'm led to believe.
With regards to your comment on the chassis side of things, are you saying the chassis is very heavy but not particularly good at containing the power given its weight? would it be better to build a chassis from scratch with the required cross bracing etc to give it the necessary rigidity and stiffness. After all when I hit the loud pedal i don't want the chassis to buckle in two!!
With regards to the irs and ifs i'm gonna go the scrappy at the weekend, i've notice alot of these soft roaders seem to use irs and ifs, maybe one of them will be suitable to my cause. obviously a honda crv diff won't take 600 horse, but it will give me most of the parts I need with maybe a need to graft in say a 9" ford diff.
With regards to your comment on the chassis side of things, are you saying the chassis is very heavy but not particularly good at containing the power given its weight? would it be better to build a chassis from scratch with the required cross bracing etc to give it the necessary rigidity and stiffness. After all when I hit the loud pedal i don't want the chassis to buckle in two!!
With regards to the irs and ifs i'm gonna go the scrappy at the weekend, i've notice alot of these soft roaders seem to use irs and ifs, maybe one of them will be suitable to my cause. obviously a honda crv diff won't take 600 horse, but it will give me most of the parts I need with maybe a need to graft in say a 9" ford diff.
I'm using the original driveline (as are the others) but beefed up -hd shafts, 4 pin diffs etc.
It wont buckle, but it does twist a fair about - I removed the central cross member for room and replaced it with something much smaller - which clearly isn't man enough. A fried who was following me said it was pretty comical watching from behind.
I just cant see much point in doing all the fab work changing it for IRS, at the end of the day it will still be a big heavy range rover. I would suggest you drop the engine and box into the std chassis and rolling gear, see how you like that - then think about going further later.
You can achieve a fair amount with the live axles, look at the bowler wildcat and the various comp safari motors - in fact, that would probably be a good source of information.
It wont buckle, but it does twist a fair about - I removed the central cross member for room and replaced it with something much smaller - which clearly isn't man enough. A fried who was following me said it was pretty comical watching from behind.
I just cant see much point in doing all the fab work changing it for IRS, at the end of the day it will still be a big heavy range rover. I would suggest you drop the engine and box into the std chassis and rolling gear, see how you like that - then think about going further later.
You can achieve a fair amount with the live axles, look at the bowler wildcat and the various comp safari motors - in fact, that would probably be a good source of information.
Thats a fair comment eliot about sticking with the standard driveline if its man enough for the job, good job the chassis i'm getting comes with all those parts required which I was merely going to ebay off. I think your right, for the time being I will go with the standard rr setup and recondition and then develop from there if required, however I hope to turn this into a daily ride, so time off the road to further develop irs and ifs is unlikely. only downside to the rr hubs is there lack of compatability with alloy wheels, is there an adapter kit on the market? also i know this is maybe in the wrong part of the forum, but is there a large disc conversion for the rr running gear?
