The V8 Owners Forum -

Did the Sherpa remote come from an LT77 or R380? On the R380, reverse is below fifth......

Chris.

Smart!.

You do need special tools - they are five thick discs of differing sizes with a threaded hole. And a long piece of studding. You use these discs to draw the old ones out and draw in the new ones (in the right order!)

Chris.

If the inlet / outlet orifices are too big, it's most likely a Jaguar flapper, which as you observe is different! Even if you manage to physically connect it, the calibration is wrong, so it's only any use if you use a mappable ECU.

Best you purchase another one.

Chris.

Tried Rimmer Bros?

And grow beards, wear sandals and become a 'full time protester' as punishment.

I don't have any filters on mine as such. There's a gauze in the fuel supply solenoid, but that's it!

Maybe injected systems have them, I don't know.

Chris.

It will physically fit if you use the inlet manifold from the 3.9. You will probably need to have a new map in the ECU though. And don't forget that the 4.6 didn't have provision for a distributor, so you'll have to either use the front cover from the 3.9 to get the distributor, or use something lik...

I ran my new-build 3.5 on 15/40 as I had some. The oil light stayed on when the engine was very hot and idling.

I switched to 20/50 (as per the manufacturers instructions!), and the light stays out at all times.

Chris.

Setup is complex - TinleyTech will supply you with the written procedure if you ask them.

Chris.

Yes it will.

Read this: http://www.kronjaeger.com/hv/hv/src/ign/index.html The switch, capacitor & resistor on the diagram (1st circuit diagram) are all contained within the amplifier. You can see that the coil has three connections, one +12, one to the amplifier and one to the spark plugs. The amplifier has 3 c...

I think that the crankshaft is the problem - a V8 needs very heavy counterweights to be perfectly balanced, and it's them whizzing around that keeps the revs down. In a flat-plane V8, it doesn't have the counterweights (or at least, they're nowhere near as bit), so the bottom end will withstand high...

There should be a +12V feed from the igntion switch going to the amp +ve and the coil +ve There should be a wire between amp -ve and coil -ve. And this goes to the tacho too as Marki says. If you want to check the coil is working, put +12 on one side (turn the igntion on), then remove the wire from ...

I could be wrong, but I would try just fitting the bottom part of the manifold from a flapper, and the top part and ancillaries from a hotwire. A pic & mix if you will.

Chris.