The V8 Owners Forum -

From my calculation, I'll get 9,75/1 when I fit 4,0 ltr pistons. I've calculated somewhere but can't remember exact, with thin gasket little over 10/1 and I feel about the max for this engine with fast road cams. I was hoping round 260 Bhp and seems like most agree. On the other side, I was in the ...

My guess would be 250-260 BHP at the crank.

I think that you would be better off skimming the heads/block in order get the 10:1 CR that you are looking for, I would avoid tin gaskets. I think that you can do any amount of fiddling with cams, inlet systems etc but the big issue with these engines is that the heads just don't flow well anough o...

Make of this what you will...

https://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/truth.htm

ChrisJC wrote: ↑

Wed Jul 11, 2018 8:55 pm

Nice.
Are you going to rebuild the engine? It looks shagged.
Chris.

Wot ya mean 'shagged'....its got new rocker covers on it, what more do you want?

You don't say what your valvetrain is, but if you have the old umbrella washers then they will have (broken up and) fallen off - completely normal for an old RV8 especially if you're running a bit hotter than usual road use. Does it puff a whiff of smoke on first start from cold? Standard SD1 heads...

If it was the HG causing the issue...I'd think there would be other pretty major symptoms too ? An RV8 deck is fairly solid...so where would combustion pressure get from the cylinder into the crankcase ? I've seen loads of head gaskets that are starting to fail but the engine has still been running...

If it was the HG causing the issue...I'd think there would be other pretty major symptoms too ? An RV8 deck is fairly solid...so where would combustion pressure get from the cylinder into the crankcase ? I've seen loads of head gaskets that are starting to fail but the engine has still been running...

It may well have blown head gaskets, they quite often allow combustion gases into the valley area of the engine, the whole engine is probably tired but the thing with these V8 lumps is that they keep on going and they don't even rattle. The usual re-build type of work would sort it out.

I probably have a sensor kicking about that you can have for the price of the postage. I've not been reading this thread in any great depth so forgive me but have you actually measured the resistance of the sensor and found it to be out of spec? Edit just check my 'junk' box, I have three pickups, o...

No issues with cross firing with the MSD setup. I spent along time checking this out, at high advance figures the front of the rotor arm lines up with each HT post and at low advance figures the trailing edge of the rotor arm lines up with the HT post so there is no way that it is going to cross fir...

A clockwork watch has style, a cheap electronic one doesn't! Also with a locked out dizzy and an ignition system that it triggered by the crank means that all that the dizzy is doing is distributing the HT to each plug, no great accuracy is required for that, the rotor just needs to be pointing at t...

'Top Fuel' engines all stick to a distributor? Is that part of the regs? Probably! Really I'm not sure what the 'downer' is on distributors is anyway... 1.OK so on the low tension side people reckon that you get timing scatter because of end float in the camshaft and that sort of thing, well the MS...

The MAP sensor actually plugs directly into the 6AL unit, you then run a vac tube to the non-timed port of the carb so its dead easy to install! I'm not sure if the software works with a Mac but you can download it from the MSD website, it probably states on the web site what it will run with. The o...

I have been faced with a situation where the CR was too high, we were building an engine where the heads had been skimmed, it looked like the tool that was used was an angle grinder! The heads needed another skim to sort out the mess, this left the CR too high. In the end we 'scooped' out some mater...