The V8 Owners Forum -

MSD dizzy is setup for the p5-p6 engine that has a different oil pump drive. You need to cut the tooth off the end of the shaft, put your gear on and drill THE hole for the pin. You need to get the length right and also the hole for the pin. If it is even slightly out the gear will break when you ta...

I would recommend 2 pack as well. You could use a zinc primer under it and it will last for years.

The soft powder coating is nylon coating and not what you want. Polyester powder coating is hard but the problem is that it has to be baked perfectly or it can be brittle and chip off easily.

I use 2 pieces of angle iron welded together to form a V and cradle the piston. I have a piece of bar just narrower than the pin and with a smaller end to fit inside the pin. All put into a press and push the pin out. It released with a bang but after that it presses out smoothly. Never damaged a pi...

get an LED and put it on an injector connector. If it stays lit something is wrong if it flashes then the ECU is switching. A scope would be even better if you have access to one. Another option might be a stick/screwdriver to your ear from an injector or a stethoscope. You should be able to hear it...

.003"-.009" is the endfloat in the manual with new bearings.

I will look out my Scim manual and get the endfloat for you. I have done it a couple of times but can't remember what it should be.

If the hubs are anything like the norm you will need a 50 ton press and stand back when the taper breaks. They come apart with a real bang.

If you look way back to the start of this forum you should find what your looking to do. Similar results to a 390 or 500, no you won't get that but it depends on what your looking for. You will get similar to the SU carbs maybe. The 38 DGAS isn't a very big carb but it will give you a low down torqu...

What were your piston to bore clearances like? I did an engine a few months back (not a v8 ) that ran fine, compression was fine but it burnt oil. The end gaps were OK as well. When i striped it down I found it was the piston to bore that was out. New pistons and a hone and it's all good now. Hopefu...

I believe john eales numbers have a JE at the front of them. I can't recall seeing a block with his stamp but my heads are stamped JExxxx

Those numbers look raised so they are in the casting/factory and not teeped/stamped from a tuner

Yep its for a starting handle.

I cant find it in the specific motorcycle handbook either. Wonder if they have changed the rules again?

I would just go for it to be honest.

Maybe it is just a bike thing that they have to be crimped? Definately know of bikes that have failed because of screw on ends instead of crimped. There are some very different MOT rules between bikes and cars.

As per Stevie, for MOT/ road legal purposes the ends need to be crimped on. Know a few bike guys turned away because of the screw together type but haven't heard any car guys to be honest.

No idea what the rules are for competition use if your going that route.

3mm should be just about thick enough not to crush in a none mandrel bender. It might ding slightly but that shouldn't matter since your using such large diameter pipe. 1.6 will weld easy enough if you have a TIG. I regularly weld 1mm with no problems. You will never bend it though lol.

Should be fine. I know a car that is running 2 bar with 1.6mm. That said if you went for the 3mm you would be able to bend it saving having to get bends and piece it all together.