The V8 Owners Forum -

Have one of those. A battery isolator device which goes between the battery negative and lead, so quick and easy to fit. https://i.ibb.co/7WdXpDj/20220618-181150.jpg It is very simple. The battery side has a flat plate a bolt head screws down into. The output side a 10mm long thread the bolt goes in...

Do know that MS uses a different algorithm for throttle bodies rather than a plenum. Presumably because of the less than smooth MAP signal? I'm wondering if it would be easier to measure the average noise (SPL) from each TB? In carb days, I found a good pair of ears at least as good and any device w...

The MS one is an MPX4250AP and available from pretty well every good electronics supplier, as they say. About £20 plus VAT. You'll find its data sheet on the RS site.

What voltage you get depends on the load on the resistor. If you change the load, that voltage will change. I'd guess the Mallory resistor is there to limit peak current. Rather than as a cold start device, as on a points system. But can't see it would do any harm to try using your existing one. If ...

Do you have details of the resistance value of the loom wire? Or measure it with a DVM? See if it is about the same as the Mallory one. If you can't, I'd replace it with the supplied one. You could run a new plain wire down the loom and keep the resistor one in case needed at a later time.

A small LED will light on a tiny current, so could be increasing the load on the switch with a parallel resistor would stop it flickering.

stevieturbo wrote: ↑

Wed May 18, 2022 1:31 pm

If you prime the pump before any cranking, in terms of lubrication can't see any reason to do anything else. Just prime until there is good oil pressure for a few seconds.

I'd also put a squirt of oil down each bore. Enough to cover the piston top.

End float doesn't really matter, as the gear will be held against the thrust washer, engine running.

Not that difficult to lock a dizzy and use an external ECU to map it. And have vacuum advance too. For less cost than that one.

Not keen on the idea. The most troublesome parts of a dizzy are the cap and rotor arm. And then we can add in slop in the drive to the dizzy. Unless you insist in things looking standard (which that dizzy doesn't anyway) a wasted spark system is better and far far more reliable. More work to install...

An RV8 which never went richer than 14.7:1 would feel very 'flat' indeed. It's why modern engines use multi-valves and variable valve timing. And other tricks to get back the performance a cat dulls.

The purpose of a narrow band lambda sensor is to keep the mixture at near stoich for the cats. Can't see any practical advantage in fitting them with no cats. A wideband, a different matter. Assuming your ECU can make use of one, which I doubt the 14CU can. With my MegaSquirt, the mixture varies bet...

That really is the answer with a VR sensor. The output is approx a sine wave. The electronics trigger on a pre-determined part of the waveform. So if it runs correctly, the polarity is correct. If it doesn't, reverse them.

Without cats the mixture can vary from optimal for maximum power (rich) to best for MPG at cruise (lean) A simple lambda sensor for a cat tends to keep it near constant.

As above I understand the ecu is told if it’s auto or manual via pin 34 and either 12v, 0v or in the car if a manual via a 510ohm resistor to earth. Mine is the latter. Cheers Ps I’m considering an ignition module from bearmach but it lists two for a 94 EFi 3.9! Typical Think the difference is two ...