The V8 Owners Forum -

Rule one with power adders is have enough fuel pump!

Alan

All Motor? JUst add a blower or turbo's no need for NOS

Alan

Hope you have a deep wallet or at least a very skilled welder on hand

Alan

As long as you are pressing them out and not using a hammer they should be fine. Done an awful lot and never had a problem.

Alan

Another vote for a mild cam here. The most important thing on a boosted engine is minimising overlap, keep the boost in the cylinder not the exhaust. The heads will show more improvement on a boosted engine than N/A anyway as pumping losses are greatly reduced, intake temp stays cooler, plenty power...

Just use the adjuster as you would on a solid cam, make up a couple of feelers from copper wire, I use 20 and 40 thou when shimming, you could use a 20 thou and one a little thicker, if the 20 fits and the other doesn't then you have pretty much optimal preload on every valve. Minimum preload allows...

Should stay primed as long as the pick up is covered, our problem is the sump comes off after every meeting and the car lives in the trailer at about a 20 degree angle. Result is a lot of priming issues. For a normal build, engine sat level and sump staying put there should be no issues.

Alan

You should still prime the pump with vaseline, the Rover pump really is poor at self priming, any time the sump is off so the pick up is exposed it will need priming again. Believe me when I say we have tried every possible method to avoid taking the pump cover off as we drop the sump and check bear...

Hi, The camshaft coating helps with break in and should not be removed, just clean the bearing surfaces if there is any residue on there, sometimes they use a greasy preservative, a pit of petrol as a solvent usually gets rid of it. Use plenty of clean oil on the journals when installing in the bloc...

Can someone tell me what the releif valve arrangement is if using one of these covers and is it more reliable than the Rover set up?

Cheers

Alan

https://www.uempistons.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=8_9_14 Keith Black Icon pistons, next to bottom of this page looks interesting, chevy pin bore and 0.036 overbore, 10 cc dish or flat top. We use a flat top in the dragster with Chevt rods, depends on your stroke what rod length you need. Mu...

The blower cam has great road manners and I would even install it in a N/A street car. The race comments were intended to show you don't need a massive cam to make power and a more moderate cam will make similar numbers while being a much more pleasant drive.

Alan

Just take the specs and have a solid lifter grind done, we did have one to solid lifter spec, again it was a great grind and made good power, we even ran it at one time with hydraulics on the exhaust and solid on the intake. I cannot say we have ever made more power with a bigger cam, timeslips are ...

You can't really go wrong with the Real Steel blower cam, not too much lift, very little overlap. We have run just about everything available at one time or another and this cam just flat out works. Valve train is happy and stable, we have seen well over 8000 rpm when the driver messed with the limi...

Hi, The A and B denote fractionally different sizes or grades of piston, the piston and bore fits were selected at the factory to give ideal clearances. On reusing the pistons the crucial areas are the side clearance of the rings in the grooves and the skirt clearance in the bore. The workshop manua...