The V8 Owners Forum -

The fact that it went together easily is not really a check on the bellhousing alignment. Even 10 thou out would mean the plate is picking up on one side until it gets squashed evenly against the flywheel by the pressure plate.

I agree that any slip is not good for a new installation. Until bedded in all the high spots are the ONLY points transmitting power and they will scorch and shine up if slip happens. The plate (if not a match pair) may be slightly too thick for the cover and this will give slightly less diaphragm pr...

Did you treat the new clutch gently for 100 miles? This beds the disc in and removes any high spots and gives a firmer even pressure all over the plate. If you work the clutch hard for the first few miles (tempting I know) then the high spots get scorched and shine up.

Yes indeed. I have forged sloppy ones in my 5.0 and they slap like crazy till they expand with heat.

TVR use 4.2 pistons in their 5.0 engines but they machine the skirts to clear the 90mm stroke crank and they put valve pockets in them.

3.9 and 4.2 rods are the same. The 4.2 pistons have a shorter pin to crown height which allows the stroke to be longer. The wrist pin on the 4.2 pistons are offset slightly just like the later 4.0/4.6 cross bolted engines.

It sounds like your stage 3 heads have had a sizeable skim and also the valve seats have been recut deeper into the head. I would be considering adjustable push rods because as sidecar has said, shims will make the RV8 rocker geometry even worse and a large preload setting will allow greater pump up...

Thanks very much for all the inputs, I took it all apart last night to find the clutch fork was actually clearing all it should In the bell housing and the fault actually lies with the cover plate, the fingers are only able to move forward 5mm before they but hard up against the friction plate henc...

Thanks Devonman I can confirm there is two heights of pivot, I have the taller on order so hoping that cures my issue, I will be checking before engine install this time :lol: , can anyone confirm the cured bearing im using against that plate is correct as helix are taking forever to get back. Than...

20180304_181809.jpg GDCorba this is it with slave removed so with slave fitted it's pretty much right angle to the gearbox input shaft Thanks Sam Photos can be deceiving but I would say that the fork needs to be at the angle shown in the photo when the bearing is just in contact with the clutch, ie...

I read somewhere that different height pivots exist.
R380 and SD1 pivots may be different???
I once removed the gearbox from a factory TVR and there was a 3mm thick washer under the pivot.

Just out of interest, did RPI supply the release bearing and the fork and did they advise on the type of release bearing you should use with the Helix clutch?
It's not unheard of for an aftermarket cheap fork to bend under load or even allow the pivot ball to push through.

V8dax2017 wrote: ↑

Sun Mar 04, 2018 8:37 pm

Evening Devonman, the plate isn't thinner but the new clutch cover is a helix unit with flatter springs so doesn't sit as high. I haven't really thought about adjusting the pivot ball, I'm guessing these are adjustable??

Thanks Sam

You could put a thick washer under it to raise it slightly.

So if you had a taller pivot point for the fork would it improve the distance the release bearing moves forwards? Are you saying that the clutch assembly is thinner than the old one?

The release bearing should move about 10mm. I would bleed again and check for air in the system. Are you confident that the slippers on the clutch arm are still in place. Try starting in gear with foot hard on the brakes and clutch pedal down and see if the engine will turn over. This may settle the...