The V8 Owners Forum -

DaveEFI wrote: ↑

Wed Jan 15, 2020 1:01 pm

We had V8 Sherpas at work, back in the day. And the ratios seemed wider than the car version?

I have never even seen a 2wd version, so I can't speak for the ratio spread, but there was a bloke on the Rover Forum who fitted one to a P6 and he was happy with it.

The GM/Buick 3.9 cast iron V6 engine's front cover is a bolt on with the uprated oil pump.

It is vented to atmosphere.
It needs a small filter, normally an inline fuel filter is OK to keep the air going in clean.
Air goes in there and circulates within the engine to give a positive flow for the tappet cover ventilation to the inlet manifold.

SuperV8 wrote: ↑

Wed Dec 04, 2019 10:35 am

Interesting, what is the weight like vs the LT77?

So the Getrag GS6-37 box has a torque rating of 370Nm?

The R380 fitted to the Sherpa is rated at 380Nm, and compares in weight and size to the LT77.
The 2wd versions are scarce, though.

What colour is the smoke?
As a general rule of thumb, blue smoke is oil, black is fuel and white can be steam or brake fluid from the booster.

You would need a 4 jaw chuck to turn those out.

Securing the sleeve is not usually an issue as they should be an interference fit on the pulley ,however a small wipe of sealant assures that the oil can't creep under the sleeve In the OEM application where I fit them, they ask for a lick of Mastinox Jointing compound, but that will be for corrosi...

I wouldn't bother with a filler, but if you feel a need to do something fit it wet with JB Weld or similar, but it will be a ballache to clean on an installed crank.

Got you, Dave.

A solution would be to measure a spare crank and order the bits on that measurement.
Alternatively, if you have sufficient depth in the seal housing, would be to insert the new seal a bit shallower into
the housing so it runs on a different part of the crank.

Dave, I am sure there are some out there, but I have no idea who. The obvious suspects would be Rimmers, Craddock, Island 4x4 et al, but don't quote me on that. Measure the diameter, depth you need it to go to and how wide you need the sleeve to be and get a few mates to measure their cranks to get ...

When it comes to needles and modifications, you are best advised to use a dyno or it will all be guess work.

I don't think it matters, but if you want to keep CR, the tin gaskets were used on the 14 bolt heads, or you can skim the heads for the later composite gaskets. Alternatively, if CR isn't an issue, then use your favourite supplier.

Your bearing and seal supplier should have them, if not, contact SKF for who their suppliers are. Here is a link to sizes, I hope it works. https://www.google.co.za/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=24&ved=2ahUKEwj6taWOiaflAhVMro8KHY2UATIQFjAXegQICRAH&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.oit.edu%2Fdocs%2Fdefa...

You can now get this sleeves for such repairs. I havent used one myself, but have heard them mentioned, and of course yes the seals will cover a small range of diameters for the actual seal itself. Speedi Sleeves are great. We use them on some of the helicopters I work on. https://www.skf.com/group...

No problem with using the 14 bolt heads, just omit the 4 bolts.
You can cut the heads off some bolts and epoxy them in place if you want to be picky.