The V8 Owners Forum -

I have used the 22 stick and level and it seems to work as it should. the case and valvebody is 22 so I would expect that to be the correct level. It did drop a lot after first running it when filling from empty, I filled it and ran it and topped it up again to the level and then had to fill more af...

From memory the 24 dipstick tube wouldn't fit the 22 case and the dipsticks were different lengths. I have a 22/24 combo as well in my 110 and used the 22 stick and tube into the pan.

Hi. Sorry not to have replied sooner but it is impossible to give you definite answer. The only way to know if you need to change them is by testing the engine either on the road or on a dyno to see what the ignition timing is doing and what it needs to be doing, you need to graph the timing advance...

I drilled my 4.6 and vented it to the air cleaner thru a filter as per the original 3.5. The hole is just thru the rear web below the inlet manifold the same as the 3.5 block, it goes into the valley. The rocker covers are both plumbed to the carb ports via flame traps.

Ranger 6 wrote: ↑Mon Apr 07, 2025 3:16 pm Not all of them - mine has a PRC7020


(Random I know -came here to look up fuel pump changing instructions )

That is an in tank pump not an external pump.

I would like to get my new 4.6 on a rolling road but everyone I talk to here only know of axle dynos. I would also like to Mao my timing, I rebuilt my disco distributor myself and have a couple of spares, I would probably send one to the distributor doctor to be set up once I get the map of the curv...

My new 4.6 has a slight tap at startup also, I think tolerances on the new lifters may not be the same as previous ones, everything is lower quality nowadays. We have an additive available here Pro ma MBL8 which I have used in many other motors and had good results from which I am going to add to mi...

I thought it was later engines that had only a half thrust bearing. Some engine parts suppliers sell the half shell separately.

I believe that most factory rover cams have the same valve lift so you need to find the valve timing to identify the cam.

Measuring the lift and degrees will give you an idea of the specs and intended engine. I have listed most of the factory cams in my post on 4.2 cams further down the page, there are others also if you do a search.

Looks like it is on backorder currently, not cheap though.
https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RB7322AB
https://www.google.com/search?q=erc2139

Landrover and Rangerovers used an external pump prc3901

I haven't had any with problems but I have heard of lifter bores being sleeved after a lifter has chewed it up.

Is a different camshaft not also required with the gear to drive the distributor? I may be wrong, but what I think you are looking for is an Interim Cover which was fitted to engines that had the crank driven oil pumps but retained the distributor. I'm not sure if it was a serpentine or V belt cove...

The crank spacer is required, I got mine from rimmerbros https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-LR012879SPACER It says for pre 94, but the serpentine 3.9 needs it as well as it was designed for the short snout crank but the 4.6 is long snout. I used a 4.2 camshaft as was common in the US for 4.6 conversions...