The V8 Owners Forum -

stainless or mild? I have both Bill the exhaust is stainless. I was thinking of installing it in the collector just after the primaries from one bank. Kevin. I'll have a rummage and see if I have a stainless. If not 50 are on their way at the moment, so worst case end of the week in your hands. As ...

stainless or mild? I have both

The motor will possibly be going into a defender 90. Big revs not so important as big torque, so prob revving to no more than 6 - 6.5K..... tpi would be a good choice, good torque due to the long runners. 6-6.5k rpm is high. I shift at 5300 and that feel plenty fast enough in my dakar. this could o...

OK clearly missed that :oops: (and I thought I was pretty thorough) still I want to rev a bit further. Mike Over 7K is pretty extreme for a push rod! The reason I always recommend EDIS for non electronics types is that there are more cases of people failing to get direct coil drive working on V8s t...

I tested 3 EDIS-8 modules on my bench setup ( pic at: http://www.jag-lovers.org/snaps/snap_view.php3?id=1180548300) this morning. "Cut out" means PIP signal disappears or goes heywire on my scope. They all had the following part no's and cut out at: F4SF-12K072-AA 4D06A: 6600 rpm F1AF-12K072-AD 2H1...

Some versions of EDIS 8 are RPM limited. Some are not. Chapter and verse is there to be found. I just can't remember where at the moment, but a quick look on msefi.com suggests 6800 for EDIS 8 As a bit of history, the first engine ever to run on MS was a 350 Chevy which Bruce Bowling has in his MK3 ...

hmmm very odd. Looking at the setup the runners are very long and unheated, so a little like the setup I used to have on my kit car with a rotary. When cold there were always fuel problems due to puddling, but they cleared after 10 seconds of running. I still reckon root cause is an ignition system ...

DCOEs and their Ilk I do know a little bit about. I'm up against the wall with work the next few days, but if you keep PM me I'll try and find half an hour to go through the options. As long as you have mappable ignition (and you MUST) then you can tune webers really well. However, if you can't get ...

eye wateringly rich. You would gain some ponies by leaning off the top end 25%

Most rolling roads use a tail pipe probe which only goes 10" at most into the exhaust, so where you suggest is fine. For a turbo engine the danger is over heating so you need to get as far from the turbo as is sensible or heatsink the sensor. If you get over 750C then the sensor cannot work properly...

yeah, but compared to say, an LS1 its still quite a lot of extra mass... Now I also realise that there is more to a performance package than block weight. And I know I am odd in coming from the se7ening world where 500kgs for the whole package is the goal. One day I'll get over this fixation, but no...

I could, but I just couldn't come to terms with adding all that weight in the front. give me time and I could be converted thought...

now that is nutty Eliot.

Must stop reading this thread since I am now the proud owner of a classic rangy

EDIT: just seen this: search.ebay.com/310021251658

That would do it

crimp and solder is fine if you use the correct strain relief (AKA heatshrink). If you have a good crimp tool then the crimp is a cold weld and very strong. Pull test every crimp

DO NOT USE THOSE NASTY PRE-INSULATED BLUE/RED CRIMP CONNECTORS. EVER. they are carp.

cool. Should be a mighty motor when complete.

Now personally I prefer to junk the stepper and use a Bosch idle valve as it is easier to control and as good as for most applications.

I'll ping Phil and get him to get in touch with you. For a RV8 he is the man for MS as he runs a 5litre in his cobra.