The V8 Owners Forum -

Now the rotor is genuine, but not the cap. Next time that goes I'll invest £30 and get a propper one. All I can say now having driven it to work yesterday is "oh my god"! It can be used as an auto in 3rd gear around town - just dump the clutch in and it pulls away, and will run at under 20...

I ran the other one over in celebration

Also worth noting! [/size] Whilst I was skulking around the connections for the amplifier to double-check it was wired ok etc, I noticed something: On the dizzy (35DM8) there are 2 wires for the amplifier, one ubove the other. One is orange, the other black. Now when fitting the A&R amplifier, ...

Dad just got home with a new rotor in hand. 30 seconds to remove the old one and slot the new one home, and the engine fired first turn, which it hasn't done in weeks. I didn't check the heights actually, but the thickness of the brass on the new one is about half that of the one it replaces, and it...

Cheers folks - I've just been doing some error-finding and I think I've narrowed it down to a most complicated of components - the rotor arm (well done x.l.r.8) Firstly - ramon, the amplifier I'm using is an RPi one, that is mounted in the cab. It's done far less than 100k miles and I'm leaving that...

The cap contact was one of the first things I checked when it died, and it looks fine. The rotor is the correct one (well... according to Halfrauds any way) There aren't any arcing marks on the rotor or the inside of the cap, but both were a bit dirty. Cleaned them up with brake cleaner and it ran r...

I cant make out from your reply of your saying Chris is right on the low tension part. If its low tension then it has nothing to do with your coil, your amp or dizzy is busted. Given comments I have read on the RPI amp I would start with that first. Right, I thought it was the secondary winding on ...

JC, it appears you're right! The Roadside Asistance man today reckons it was that too. That's right, it died spectacularly... in the rush hourn :oops: , now it's a no-go at all so I'm in the market for a new coil. I've currently got a standard lucas one (my second one actually) and an RPI A&R sp...

Had the gas system tuned and all was hunkey for about a week, ran really well on petrol and gas. It's had a very slight tick from the off-side bank towards the back (around no. 8) which I took to be a small manifold leak, but I never bothered to sort it as I'm getting tubular headers at the end of t...

Apart from cross-bolting on some engines (row of bolts across above the sup line), all are identical.
90/110/SD1/P5/P6 parts are all interchangeable.

I have been told that the coils fitted here do not suffer from vibration or get any hotter than normal. Bo**ocks! It will get vibration and will more than certainly get more heat than normal (unless it's normally mounted to the exhaust manifold? :lol:) If you use the original coil bracket, you coul...

A timging cover/water pump from a 4.6/4.0, a new crank pulley (not sure if shaf size is the same), and a new PAS pump/pulley, (aircon?) With the new timing cover will be needed a new oil pump. Or you could just get an SD1 style alternator bracket, and a rangey style one, then you could fit 2 smaller...

To be honest I'm not that worried about having it variable, and changing to a twin master system seems like making a mountain out of a mole-hill especially as my current master is in GWO. Maybe when it fails I'll look at that idea - mainly because I'd like fiddle brakes too

Kiwicar - Nope, sadly it's an open/lock diff not a Borg-Warner like the rangey.
Katanaman - I will have a look , try to track down a local scrappy with one in!

I' hopefully about to fit a disc-braked rear axle to my 90, to replace the crappy drum axle that's there now. I'll need a bias valve otherwise the rear will lock up! Any ideas about which is a good one to use? I've heard there's a small one that Ford do that I could fit. I'm talking scrappy budget h...