Tips installing carb spacer?

[NGTC]

Hi all,
I am new on here as new to V8's. I have recently taken ownership of an NG TC running a 4.6 RV8. Loving the noise and the torque

The engine feels like it is running well but it is a pig to start when hot. After reading on here and other places, I am going to fit a carb spacer based on fuel vapourisation being a likely cause.
I have already fitted a new coil, HT leads, plugs and rotor arm to make sure none were contributing to any problems. I have a Weber 500 carb on an Edelbrock performer manifold.

So, anyway, I have just bought a 1/2" phenolic spacer, like this -
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/322031744109? ... EBIDX%3AIT

Just wondering how simple it is to remove the carb and fit one?

So, really just wanted to check that it is a simple enough job before I start something that involves a bit more know how than I have. I am happy to give anything a go, I am just better following instructions as I am no expert.
E.g. Will I need to adjust the throttle cable with the spacer?

Any help appreciated.
Cheers
Al

[mike-b]

Al,
I also have the 500 & performer. I fitted a home made spacer but the method is still the same.

Your bought spacer should do the job but I strongly recommend you use two of the Weber 500 gaskets - one above and one below your spacer. Keep away from any goo muck.
My home made spacer has a large square hole in the middle instead of the four smaller ones you have, however yours should be fine as is.

If your throttle cable is already secured using one of the carb securing bolts you should be Ok

[NGTC]

Al,
I also have the 500 & performer. I fitted a home made spacer but the method is still the same.

Your bought spacer should do the job but I strongly recommend you use two of the Weber 500 gaskets - one above and one below your spacer. Keep away from any goo muck.
My home made spacer has a large square hole in the middle instead of the four smaller ones you have, however yours should be fine as is.

If your throttle cable is already secured using one of the carb securing bolts you should be Ok

Thanks Mike, much appreciated.
The kit comes with 2 gaskets and the long bolts so hopefully have everything I need.
Right, next step is bonnet off. One downside is that after fitting the spacer, I will need to remove the bonnet to just change the air filter, but not a biggie.
Cheers

[NGTC]

I have tried to remove the carb tonight.
4 bolts securing it to the manifold right?
All off but that carb is not moving. Is it usual for a carb to be very difficult to split from the manifold?
The bolts look a little off centre, so they are wedged against the holes in the carb, so not sure if that is the problem.
How much force should I use?

[mike-b]

Hi Al,
The carb can be a bugger to remove, however 4 bolts securing it is not the best way of doing the job. Those bolts need to be replaced with threaded rod then you can use nuts and spring & plain washers. You can then cut the rod to the length required.
I used stainless steel (8mm) rod from "Screwfix" part No. 4380J , its A2 stainless, not the very best but good enough. You get 5x300mm rods for £5, get yourself a catalogue always handy, include s/steel nuts too.

You have got to get those bolts out anyway as its a rubbish way of doing the job, if four rods are fitted they also hold the gaskets in place when rebuilding and your problem will not happen again.

By your description it seems someone has used bolts and cross threaded them and probably used thread lock as well. Some brute force and ignorance may help but use a socket or a ring spanner. Let me know how you get on.

[NGTC]

Hi Al,
The carb can be a bugger to remove, however 4 bolts securing it is not the best way of doing the job. Those bolts need to be replaced with threaded rod then you can use nuts and spring & plain washers. You can then cut the rod to the length required.
I used stainless steel (8mm) rod from "Screwfix" part No. 4380J , its A2 stainless, not the very best but good enough. You get 5x300mm rods for £5, get yourself a catalogue always handy, include s/steel nuts too.

You have got to get those bolts out anyway as its a rubbish way of doing the job, if four rods are fitted they also hold the gaskets in place when rebuilding and your problem will not happen again.

By your description it seems someone has used bolts and cross threaded them and probably used thread lock as well. Some brute force and ignorance may help but use a socket or a ring spanner. Let me know how you get on.

Sorted!
In fact, the carb was secured with rods. The carb just wouldn't move with as much ignorance as I could muster. I then tried brute force by using a spare steering column I had in the garage, so the torque I managed on that thing then made it move very easily.
I now need to get some of the longer rods as you suggested, because the combo of the new spacer and the angled alloy spacer already fitted are too tall.

Oh, and I realised last night, the manifold isn't what I was led to believe at all. It is a JWR dual port offenhauser manifold. Chosen because it is very low to get under the bonnet I guess.

Now, my next decision is whether or not to remove the choke plate from the carb. The choke isn't connected at the moment and it seems the plate is just sat there idly (excuse the pun) restricting air flow I would have thought?

Thanks again, I appreciate any advice to give me the confidence to tackle some of these small jobs.
Cheers

[sidecar]

You can remove the choke plate but leave the fast idle system in place, I doubt that the choke plate is the most restrictive thing on the primary side of the carb but every little helps! (The primary boosters are the most restrictive thing, they are huge!)

You can also cut away the whole support for the choke plate which does allow the primary side of the carb to breathe better if the air filter lid is a bit to close to the top of the carb.

[NGTC]

You can remove the choke plate but leave the fast idle system in place, I doubt that the choke plate is the most restrictive thing on the primary side of the carb but every little helps! (The primary boosters are the most restrictive thing, they are huge!)

You can also cut away the whole support for the choke plate which does allow the primary side of the carb to breathe better if the air filter lid is a bit to close to the top of the carb.

Great, I'll get to this tomorrow while i have the carb off.
By the fast idea system, do you mean the secondary part of the throttle linkage. I wasn't going to remove that, but out of interest, why do you suggest leaving it? Isn't it's only function to set the idle speed when on choke?

Thanks
Al

[DEVONMAN]

I believe the threads for the carb bolts in an Offenhauser manifold are 5/16" UNC and

not M8 or are you talking about different bolts?

[mike-b]

Sorry to but in here but Al probably got the 8mm size from my earlier post.

Devonman: You are probably correct with the 5/16 UNC thread in the Offenhouser, I don`t know. I think the Performer may also be the same, however I tapped my performer to the 8mm thread and locked the s/steel threaded rod in place. In fact I had damaged one of the four holes in the manifold so I decided to tap them all at 8mm. As the job was done years ago I had completely forgot 8mm was not standard.
It was not my intention to give out information wrongly - simply an oversight on my part so I apologise for any confusion caused.

[NGTC]

Hi guys,

Just an update to say everything now refitted and choke plate removed. I got some extra long carb bolts from Real Steel as I needed some gaskets and a new filter anyway.
So, everything back together and I took the car out for a spin to check the result. Ran as before but stopped for petrol and the test was the restart. This sort of scenario was a real problem before. Let the pump refill the carb for a few seconds and then twisted the key, no throttle; it started straight away. Amazing! What a difference from a piece of modded plastic!
Thanks for all the help.