Dismantling rover v8 water pump
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Dismantling rover v8 water pump
Hi All
New to the forum but not new to cars, bikes, boats, campervans yada yada ya
Picked up a series 3 Land Rover station wagon with a "professional" V8 conversion.
A 3.5 rover from a 1979 SD1. suffers the long water pump problem solved by the installers tipping the rad forward a bit and using a hammer on the rad to get some clearance!
My question is does anyone know how to get the rover water pumps apart?
I know it can be done because A, the manual says so and B, I've seen the pictures.
If I can get it apart I can machine inches off the nose of the darn thing and turn up a new pulley. Nice thing about having a small machine shop in the back garden! I've got a spare pump with knackered bearings but I'd rather not destroy it as they are not exactly cheap.
I tentatively applied a puller to the pulley boss but got nowhere.
My guess is that the steel pulley mount/boss is sweated on then becomes rust welded over time. and the application of heat and brute force should loosen it.
Anyone know any different?
New to the forum but not new to cars, bikes, boats, campervans yada yada ya
Picked up a series 3 Land Rover station wagon with a "professional" V8 conversion.
A 3.5 rover from a 1979 SD1. suffers the long water pump problem solved by the installers tipping the rad forward a bit and using a hammer on the rad to get some clearance!
My question is does anyone know how to get the rover water pumps apart?
I know it can be done because A, the manual says so and B, I've seen the pictures.
If I can get it apart I can machine inches off the nose of the darn thing and turn up a new pulley. Nice thing about having a small machine shop in the back garden! I've got a spare pump with knackered bearings but I'd rather not destroy it as they are not exactly cheap.
I tentatively applied a puller to the pulley boss but got nowhere.
My guess is that the steel pulley mount/boss is sweated on then becomes rust welded over time. and the application of heat and brute force should loosen it.
Anyone know any different?
It's supposed to look like that . . . .honest!
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- Top Dog
- Posts: 1278
- Joined: Mon May 04, 2009 6:53 am
Probably, but effort isn't the issue it's the doing of the thing.
Why spend more money when I can modify something I already have?
Plus there are lots of people looking for shorter pumps and pulleys to fit and I have a machine shop in my back garden!
From what i have been able to make out the pumps and shafts can be shortened by a few inches.
Why spend more money when I can modify something I already have?
Plus there are lots of people looking for shorter pumps and pulleys to fit and I have a machine shop in my back garden!
From what i have been able to make out the pumps and shafts can be shortened by a few inches.
It's supposed to look like that . . . .honest!
It will be interesting if you can get the pump apart as I tried to take one of my old pumps apart myself a couple of weeks ago, I could not get it apart even by putting it in my hydraulic press and putting nearly 8 Tons of pressure on it, I did not go higher as the pump could shatter. If you cannot get the pump apart and do not want to go down the P6 pump route I believe that there is a short nose EFI pump available ( one without the threaded section for the viscous fan ).
3.5l v8 Triumph Spitfire
351 ci Cleveland powered 71 mach1
351 ci Cleveland powered 71 mach1
The pump seals and bearings are knackered so not really worried about them.
Managed to get the pulley off quite easily, just a press fit, but the shaft and impeller are putting up more of a fight. I've got a cunning plan though.
Will take some pictures, might do a how to, will offer a pump shortening/servicing service if ti comes apart ok and the bearings or something close are still available.
From what I can see the front bearing and dust seal will need pushing out from inside the pump. The lower bearing and seal is what's holding it in there.
Managed to get the pulley off quite easily, just a press fit, but the shaft and impeller are putting up more of a fight. I've got a cunning plan though.
Will take some pictures, might do a how to, will offer a pump shortening/servicing service if ti comes apart ok and the bearings or something close are still available.
From what I can see the front bearing and dust seal will need pushing out from inside the pump. The lower bearing and seal is what's holding it in there.
It's supposed to look like that . . . .honest!
-
- Top Dog
- Posts: 1278
- Joined: Mon May 04, 2009 6:53 am
Overhaul kits were available in the late 1980s as I have one. Comes with the spring loaded seal mechanism and the ceramic washer but no bearing.
The ceramic washer fits into the back of the impeller, onto which the seal runs. The impeller is one use only, so a new one would need to be sourced.
Ron.
The ceramic washer fits into the back of the impeller, onto which the seal runs. The impeller is one use only, so a new one would need to be sourced.
Ron.
4.6 Rover 3500 P6B