rover v8 engined stag cooling

General Chat About Cooling & Overheating

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richardw
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hot stag

Post by richardw »

its been a while since i last typed...........just spent wrong side of 500 quid having both heads done, skimmed pressure tested valves reground,blah blah blah.Gaskets had not blown...............................the problem is still there!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Erratic temperature. I still think its a air lock /plumbing problem.Does anybody have any pictures of a rover v8 in their stag so i can look at how the hose/expansion tank are arranged.(or does anybody live near me. mansfield notts)Spent so much money now and getting no enjoyment out of car :nutz thanks in advance



RoverP6B
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Post by RoverP6B »

Hello Richard,

Here is a 1973 Triumph Stag cpmplete with Rover V8 SD1 engine. There are lots of pics and info. Hope it might help.

http://www.britishv8.org/Triumph/GlennMerrell.htm

Ron.
4.6 Rover 3500 P6B

richardw
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Post by richardw »

thanks ron, my stag features a twin su 's so its a bit hard to trace the set up on that picture, but thanks for the link.I have just rang a v8 specialists in lincs and he rekons it sounds like the liners in the block are the problem.Just like a punch in the stomach when i have spent so much money on it.....Thats a new block according to him,does anybody have any experiance with this problem? He says its very rare on the 3.5 engine.
I dont think i can justify spending anymore money on this slag any more! cheers folks

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Post by RoverP6B »

richardw wrote,..
just rang a v8 specialists in lincs and he rekons it sounds like the liners in the block are the problem
Hello Richard,

I would be very sceptical of such a diagnosis.

Does the engine make any knocking sounds indicitive of a liner moving within the block?

The original 3 litre V8 Triumph engines within the Stag were notorious for overheating,..radiator too small, insufficient air flow reaching the radiator,..now in your case with a Rover V8 the situation remains the same.

I would bet a penny to a pound that the cooling system is the problem.

Ron.
4.6 Rover 3500 P6B

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topcatcustom
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Post by topcatcustom »

Richard, can you post a couple of pictures of the front of the car with grill removed and inside the engine bay looking foreward so we can see what you have cooling wise? Also does it make any difference with your cabin heater turned on or off?

TC

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ChrisJC
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Post by ChrisJC »

Get a cooling system pressure test with the engine hot to see if the liner has moved.

But, it is very rare on 3.5's

Chris.
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R/R P38 4.6 V8
R/R L405 4.4 SDV8

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Post by richardw »

I would love to post some images,but being a newbie i cabt get my head round how you do it! any help folks......................thanks

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topcatcustom
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Post by topcatcustom »

Upload them to photobucket (make a new account) then when you look at your page with all the thumbnails, move your cursor over the ones you want and some stuff will pop out underneath the pic, copy and paste the IMG code into your post on here job done!

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Ian Anderson
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Post by Ian Anderson »

Richard

Does it make any difference if you run with the cockpit heater on or off?

Ian
Owner of an "On the Road" GT40 Replica by DAX powered by 3.9Hotwre Efi, worked over by DJ Motors. EFi Working but still does some kangaroo at low revs (Damn the speed limits) In to paint shop 18/03/08.

richardw
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Post by richardw »

What a nightmare! thanks tc, could not have done it without you.........cheers.finally sorted pics out,let me know what you think....... Will have to get engine pressure tested-it make no difference wether heater on or off.Do you think it could be something to do with the top hose?? thanks again. engine does not sound odd,starts first turn of key,drives good pulls strongly and never used any water.what is the best way of dealing with air locks?(if that is the problem)

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Post by topcatcustom »

Dont know if there is an easy way of dealing with airlocks, however if you drill a 4/5mm hole in the top of the thermostat (the actual thermostat NOT the housing!!) it helps.
I still think Ron could be on the right lines with insufficient cooling from the rad, you could get an ally one to fit or cut a bigger one in which shouldn't be too hard, and would be cheaper than spending £500 on your heads ( :shock: a bit late but you could have probably got some ported exchange ones for that for a big power gain).
Also if you could squeeze a fan in behind instead of infront, and add any necessary cowling to channel air through the rad and stop air leaks with tape.

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Post by ChrisJC »

OK, I'm not quite sure how the setup you have is supposed to work. It's certainly different from both of my V8 setups.

(FWIW, the rad doesn't look miles out, and you shouldn't need the fan whilst driving).

If I understand correctly, the bleed pipe from the penthouse on the inlet manifold goes into the expansion tank. There seems to be another pipe from the expansion tank which I presume goes into the rad.

I also notice a bleed point on top of the rad, which I presume is free from air.

So the pressure of the system is determined by the cap on the expansion bottle. What pressure is it?

Have you measured the pressure that the cooling system runs at?

Can you measure the temp of the top hose and the bottom hose whilst driving, to see if the water coming back from the bottom hose is 'cool'?

Chris.
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R/R P38 4.6 V8
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Ian Anderson
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Post by Ian Anderson »

Double post - computer problems
Owner of an "On the Road" GT40 Replica by DAX powered by 3.9Hotwre Efi, worked over by DJ Motors. EFi Working but still does some kangaroo at low revs (Damn the speed limits) In to paint shop 18/03/08.

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