Help - High Temps - Race Engine

oneaves2005 · Post by **oneaves2005** » Wed Mar 12, 2014 2:48 pm

All,

Having some heating issues with my rover V8 engine and wondered if any of you guys had any bright ideas that could help…..

The engine is full fat JE race engine, it’s a 3.9 +0.080” and produces in the region of 370bhp. I am running a Davies Craig 115 EWP due to space and belt configuration and also that the engine came this way. My water temps on a warmish day reach nearly 110 Celsius on a standard mild day it runs around 100 Celsius this is way too hot for me but no matter what I do the temps will not go down. I have tried the following:

- Reducing the flow rate of the water buy means of restricting the flow through the rad with plates with varying size holes
- Increase the flow rate to flat out so no thermostat or blanking sleeve
- Increased air flow through the radiator
- Decreased air flow through the radiator
- I have just had some bonnet louvres punched into the bonnet to help with the air flow under the bonnet which has made no difference

The radiator is new and made by radtec – it’s a triple core rad the same as all the other races use and they have no issues. A lot of the other racers in my class use the smaller 85 EWP with no problems so I don’t think it’s the case that the pump is not big enough. The temp rises quite fast even on tickover from cold…..the fan does little to control it. I have checked the temp gauge is accurate as well….

Ideas please people!!!

crayefish · Post by **crayefish** » Wed Mar 12, 2014 4:43 pm

- Reducing the flow rate of the water buy means of restricting the flow through the rad with plates with varying size holes

Bad idea... short of cavitating flow, more is better. You simply can't have too much flow within reason (except when it cavitates or it takes too much engine power).

- Increase the flow rate to flat out so no thermostat or blanking sleeve

A thermostat is needed to create a pressure differential so that the cooling is even across all head passages etc. If taken out (no reason to really) then some small restrictor is needed.

- Increased air flow through the radiator

By how much? Are your fans shrouded? Are you getting recirculation?

- Decreased air flow through the radiator

Not going to work

- I have just had some bonnet louvres punched into the bonnet to help with the air flow under the bonnet which has made no difference

Have you checked that no cooling passages or the radiator isn't blocked? Is the system properly bleed? Ignition timing etc are spot on? Personally I think the EWP is crap but I guess as others are using an 85 it would not likely be the problem. I suspect air flow recirculation or something up with the engine (rather than cooling system).

How is the temp ddistribution across the head and the radiator?

Just my two cents but others more experienced who can probably help better.

Post by **Coops** » Wed Mar 12, 2014 6:14 pm

not got head or block issues have you?
just a thought as you said it gets hot real quick from cold,

ChrisJC · Post by **ChrisJC** » Wed Mar 12, 2014 6:16 pm

Are the others using a Rover V8?, or smaller engines. The RV8 does need a lot of cooling.

Have you measured temperature at the radiator output pipe to see how much the rad is dropping the temp?

On my Landie, (and I believe is also true on the Land Rover 101), the aerodynamics and under-bonnet airflow mean that the airflow through the rad isn't what you think it is.

Chris.

Ian Anderson · Post by **Ian Anderson** » Thu Mar 13, 2014 6:32 am

Are your gauge and sender matched?

You may be seeing these temps on the gauge when in reality your engine is running at the correct temp

Ian

oneaves2005 · Post by **oneaves2005** » Thu Mar 13, 2014 9:30 am

Thanks all, the engine is fine - it has been run up on the dyno without any heating issues or anything out of the norm....

The gauge is a stack pro gauge with a matched sender etc

I think it would be a good idea to check how much the radiator is dropping the temp - any ideas on how much temp drop I should see?

It could always be a faulty radiator I guess!

Do we think changing to distilled water with water wetter would help? Currently using a glycol anti-freeze at 25%

oneaves2005 · Post by **oneaves2005** » Thu Mar 13, 2014 9:30 am

Thanks all, the engine is fine - it has been run up on the dyno without any heating issues or anything out of the norm....

The gauge is a stack pro gauge with a matched sender etc

I think it would be a good idea to check how much the radiator is dropping the temp - any ideas on how much temp drop I should see?

It could always be a faulty radiator I guess!

Do we think changing to distilled water with water wetter would help? Currently using a glycol anti-freeze at 25%

crayefish · Post by **crayefish** » Thu Mar 13, 2014 10:27 am

oneaves2005 wrote:Thanks all, the engine is fine - it has been run up on the dyno without any heating issues or anything out of the norm....

The gauge is a stack pro gauge with a matched sender etc

I think it would be a good idea to check how much the radiator is dropping the temp - any ideas on how much temp drop I should see?

It could always be a faulty radiator I guess!

Do we think changing to distilled water with water wetter would help? Currently using a glycol anti-freeze at 25%

But have you tried a totally different gauge and sender? Is the sender definitely in the water and not in a trapped air/steam pocket? It's essential to check if you haven't (even pro gauges can be faulty!)

Using distiled water and wetter won't solve the problem... only mask it. Just a bandage really. Solve the problem first, then use wetter if you want extra peace of mind while racing.

oneaves2005 · Post by **oneaves2005** » Thu Mar 13, 2014 1:04 pm

here is a pic of the engine bay, the temp sensor is just to the right of the thermostat housing....should be ok here?

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r2d2hp · Post by **r2d2hp** » Thu Mar 13, 2014 1:18 pm

Is that the header tank next to the exhaust manifold?

oneaves2005 · Post by **oneaves2005** » Thu Mar 13, 2014 1:20 pm

It's a good 2.5" away - but yeah.

Ian Anderson · Post by **Ian Anderson** » Thu Mar 13, 2014 1:29 pm

Nice engine bay

Is your fuel pump able to keep up with the engine?

Bear with me here
On a dyno the run is say 10 seconds max

On a track at full throttle down a straigt - a lot more or the straight is not that long

By not gettig enough fuel flow you will lean out and that causes extra heat.

so check your Air fuel ratios with an exhaust sniffer when on track to be sure.

Ian

oneaves2005 · Post by **oneaves2005** » Thu Mar 13, 2014 1:40 pm

Ian,

I'm running a holley blue pump which I'm assured is man enough for the job. I have a fuel pressure gauge on the dash which never dips below 3.25 psi....

Ollie

chodjinn · Post by **chodjinn** » Fri Mar 14, 2014 7:37 am

More pics of the car please!

Ian Anderson · Post by **Ian Anderson** » Fri Mar 14, 2014 12:48 pm

oneaves2005 wrote:Ian,

I'm running a holley blue pump which I'm assured is man enough for the job. I have a fuel pressure gauge on the dash which never dips below 3.25 psi....

Ollie

Hi
Is that pressure between pump and regulator or regulator and carbs?
Sorry for dum question but I have seen both (Though I would expevt pump to regulator pressure to be higher) and then someone had a sticky regulator that restricted flow so much it caused lean out

Ian

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Help - High Temps - Race Engine

Help - High Temps - Race Engine

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