COOLING IMPROVEMENT

stevieturbo · Post by **stevieturbo** » Wed Oct 02, 2013 7:52 pm

you just want the fan to cover as much core as possible. Where they are mounted really doesnt matter.
It's all about surface area, and then airflow.

Straight blades usually move more air. Curved blades mainly came about because they are quieter.

Either way, just buy the best most powerful fan you can, regardless of blade design.
Make sure it's intended as a pusher or puller as required. And the higher the CFM rating the better.

And buy a good make, Spal are among the best.

And of course if you have the room, and even more so if your rad is actually an OEM fitment, OEM fans are generally pretty damn good of you can fit an entire rad/fan unit.

mike-b · Post by **mike-b** » Wed Oct 02, 2013 9:54 pm

Hi Stevie,
Many thanks for your last, all sound advise and inwardly digested, better still worked on.
I`ve already made a start by looking for parts. The fan(s) with their OEM shroud certainly looks the better bet.
Regards, mike

unstable load · Post by **unstable load** » Sun Oct 06, 2013 4:11 pm

Just a thought here, is the pump being driven the right way? In other words, is it actually pumping the right way through the system? I know some pumps are designed to run ''backwards'' due to the belt layout on the serpentine engines.

If it is, can you actually see the water moving in the radiator? It should be easily visible that there is movement.

mike-b · Post by **mike-b** » Sun Oct 06, 2013 8:54 pm

Hi John, Yes the pump is going the correct way, P6 pump, clockwise view from rad.
I can also see the coolant moving in the rad, there is no slip or damaged internals of pump.

The problem is self inflicted really, Stevie pointed it out but was to polite to tell me I had made a mess of the job in the first place, had he done so he would have still been correct.

I need a full shroud and a 16-inch electric fan, the 17-inch steel job with little shrouding is basically doing bugger all except wear the pump bearings out faster than normal.

I opened the wallet, cleared the moths and placed my order(s).

Thanks for the reply, regards, Mike

unstable load · Post by **unstable load** » Mon Oct 07, 2013 5:31 am

mike-b wrote:I opened the wallet, cleared the moths and placed my order(s).

Good one, it is always frustrating when you need to do
something twice.

mike-b · Post by **mike-b** » Tue Nov 19, 2013 9:22 pm

Hi All,
Finally got round to curing my under bonnet heat problem ..... a problem I created.
Contacted Jim at JRV8 and bought a SD1 rad shroud. The R/Rover V8 rad was a bit of a bugger to fit the shroud to it but its done.
My cooling system is now plumbed thus:- P6 pump (space) and fixed 17-inch fan. A R/Rover V8 rad that has no pressure cap fitting - made that way - and requires a separate tank with a pressure cap fitted.
The top of the rad has the standard P6 top hose fitted, a smaller hose of 8mm ID connected to the top of the rad on the drivers side - the fitting for this is part of the rad and goes to the top of the separate ( expansion ? ) tank.
The bottom hose is "Teed" off with 16mm ID to the bottom of the (expansion?) tank.
The tank having the pressure cap fitted and a release pressure hose going to the bottom of the engine bay.
The top of the rad has a 22mm threaded hole ( made that way ) with a 22mm brass bung that is tapped out to 1/4-inch B.S.P. This 1/4-inch hole has a heat sensor fitted that controls a digital meter, this meter controls a 10-inch back-up fan that feeds a 10-inch push fan.if needed - grille side of rad.
Took the car for a run of about 10 miles and the temperature stayed at 92. without the back-up push fan switching on. The under bonnet heat is well down now.
So ... a result.

Stevie - if you are reading this the tank in question is the standard tank fitted to the Granny 2. Your view of a 17-inch fixed metal fan has been taken on board and I agree with you. I am now looking for a plastic bladed 16 or 17-inch fan to fit instead.

stevieturbo · Post by **stevieturbo** » Tue Nov 19, 2013 9:48 pm

The 8mm hose is a vent from the top of the rad. This should go to an expansion bottle/header as per most OEM setups.

It basically just burps any air that gets trapped in the rad.

From this same bottle, the lower 16mm hose would be the fill point for the system, and generally goes pre-water pump intake.
Whether that's in the rad itself, or the bottom hose etc etc

Both of the above would be kept within the pressurised system.