I am playing (to use the term loosely) with a 3.5l RV8 from an SD1 which is mounted into a kit car, the rad looks to be from a Ford Sierra and is mounted at about 45 degree angle (top half of rad towards front of car and bottom half towards crank pulley)
When I had the car it looked like it had been running hot or over heating, the previous owner had wired in some flash electric temp probe unter the bonnet mounted to a adjustable relay which switched on the twin electric cooling fans... I have removed all of this and am running a 90 degree temp sensor in the rad (which switches a relay to earth to power fans) and a manual switch in the car to also power the fans if she overheats..
Changing the Carb for a Edelbrock and removing the old top hose it looks like its was air locking as the hose on the SU manifold was higher than the expansion tank, but not sure if it was expansion tank as it had heater retuning through it.... the problem was the top hose never got hot but this expansion / flow through tank was cooking, so with the new Edelbrock the top hose is now coming out at different angle and I am thinking of binning this tank for a proper expansion tank mounted higher up.
My question is if I mount the expansion tank higher than the top hose even though the rad is lower than the top hose water should find its own level to flow.... so the pipe work will go, carb housing top hose to top of rad, bottom hose to waterpump, back of water pump to inlet manifold, back of inlet manifold to heater, heater back to water pump and then add expansion tank with hose feeding the rad or Tee into top hose and a small leak off from expansion tank.... any advice greatly received
Cooling system flow and Rad position
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If by expansion tank you mean a pressurised tank (which I would call a header tank) which is the highest point in the system, then I think you are OK.
You would connect the bottom connection (16mm ish) from the header tank into the bottom hose. Then you would connect small (6mm ish) hoses from each of the highest points into the header tank too (at the top). Maybe one from the top of the rad, or the inlet manifold, or both. The header tank would run at system pressure.
Chris.
You would connect the bottom connection (16mm ish) from the header tank into the bottom hose. Then you would connect small (6mm ish) hoses from each of the highest points into the header tank too (at the top). Maybe one from the top of the rad, or the inlet manifold, or both. The header tank would run at system pressure.
Chris.
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Series IIA 4.6 V8
R/R P38 4.6 V8
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Series IIA 4.6 V8
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R/R L405 4.4 SDV8
- Ian Anderson
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When you are at it ad shrouding etc or the radiator. So that all the air that enters the radiator grill is forced through the radiator. Ie stop the air escapism
NGO around the sides top and bottom
Ian
NGO around the sides top and bottom
Ian
Owner of an "On the Road" GT40 Replica by DAX powered by 3.9Hotwre Efi, worked over by DJ Motors. EFi Working but still does some kangaroo at low revs (Damn the speed limits) In to paint shop 18/03/08.
- Ian Anderson
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Sorry about that but the I pad seems to have decided on predictive text speakIan Anderson wrote:When you are at it ad shrouding etc or the radiator. So that all the air that enters the radiator grill is forced through the radiator. Ie stop the air escapism
NGO around the sides top and bottom
Ian
Ian
Owner of an "On the Road" GT40 Replica by DAX powered by 3.9Hotwre Efi, worked over by DJ Motors. EFi Working but still does some kangaroo at low revs (Damn the speed limits) In to paint shop 18/03/08.
- richardpope50
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