The non standard connection to the manifold (The one that looks like it has PTFE tape on the Thread) is very unusual and is a route that coolant can bypass the rad. So not good. This is why I said earlier that you should try clamping this hose. Coolant will then continuously flow from the top of the rad through the small hose into the expansion tank and clear any air in the rad header tank. This small hose needs to be small and restrictive or else it will also be a significant rad bypass. Again not good.
I repeat my suggestion that you clamp the hose from the manifold to the header tank and see if things improve temperature wise.
Cheers Denis
Rover V8 Mk1 Escort cooling diagram?
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The plumbing layout looks fine to me. It is pretty much what I had in my van, which never overheated, even under the worst possible conditions.
The only issue is whether the header tank is high enough up. The water level should be above everything else in the system, so all the air will migrate into the header tank (via the small hoses from behind the thermostat and on top of the rad).
If the header tank cannot be above everything, then you need to alter it to an expansion tank, where you get all the air to move into the top of the rad ( by ensuring the rad neck is the highest point), then running a tube from the rad overflow into a water bottle. Air will be pumped out as the system expands, and water sucked back in as it cools. You need a rad cap which has a pressure rating on the inner part, and a complete seal on the outer part.
But I really would make sure the rad is big enough before doing anything else.
Chris.
The only issue is whether the header tank is high enough up. The water level should be above everything else in the system, so all the air will migrate into the header tank (via the small hoses from behind the thermostat and on top of the rad).
If the header tank cannot be above everything, then you need to alter it to an expansion tank, where you get all the air to move into the top of the rad ( by ensuring the rad neck is the highest point), then running a tube from the rad overflow into a water bottle. Air will be pumped out as the system expands, and water sucked back in as it cools. You need a rad cap which has a pressure rating on the inner part, and a complete seal on the outer part.
But I really would make sure the rad is big enough before doing anything else.
Chris.
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Series IIA 4.6 V8
R/R P38 4.6 V8
R/R L405 4.4 SDV8
Series IIA 4.6 V8
R/R P38 4.6 V8
R/R L405 4.4 SDV8
Hi Chris.
I agree with all your points but I have found that by reducing the number of byepasses that allow hot coolant to return to the engine block without going through the rad has improved cooling at tickover /in traffic.
One case I know of is an MGB v8 which ran cooler in summer with the heater hoses closed off which seemed strange until the reality struck.
Cheers Denis
I agree with all your points but I have found that by reducing the number of byepasses that allow hot coolant to return to the engine block without going through the rad has improved cooling at tickover /in traffic.
One case I know of is an MGB v8 which ran cooler in summer with the heater hoses closed off which seemed strange until the reality struck.
Cheers Denis
Probably true, but only if the overall system is a bit marginal. I fit the biggest rad I possibly can, and since doing so haven't had any trouble in the Landie or the Sherpa.DEVONMAN wrote:Hi Chris.
I agree with all your points but I have found that by reducing the number of byepasses that allow hot coolant to return to the engine block without going through the rad has improved cooling at tickover /in traffic.
Chris.
--
Series IIA 4.6 V8
R/R P38 4.6 V8
R/R L405 4.4 SDV8
Series IIA 4.6 V8
R/R P38 4.6 V8
R/R L405 4.4 SDV8