Not cool enough
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Isn't that the wrong way round? Both my cars have Sachs temperature controlled viscous couplings, and their normal mode is (near) free-wheel. They only start to increase the speed when the rad temp - ie the airflow hitting the control mechanism gets very high. My SD1 hardly very does this - my BMW quite regularly.
Dave
London SW
Rover SD1 VDP EFI
MegaSquirt2 V3
EDIS8
Tech Edge 2Y
London SW
Rover SD1 VDP EFI
MegaSquirt2 V3
EDIS8
Tech Edge 2Y
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Winching heats mine up too. There is more heat from the alternator, the rad can suck hot air in because you're stationary and the mud that you're usually sunk in reduces the air flow exit around the gearbox!
Bonnet vents seem a good choice. I run an electric fan blowing onto the carbs as they were prone to boiling up. But I'm rear rad, so there really isn't any air flow.
A good fan surround/air box is vital to get all those fins working. And every dip in the mud hole needs a good rad clean afterward. I think I spend 2-3 hours on maintenance and repair for every hour offroading
Bonnet vents seem a good choice. I run an electric fan blowing onto the carbs as they were prone to boiling up. But I'm rear rad, so there really isn't any air flow.
A good fan surround/air box is vital to get all those fins working. And every dip in the mud hole needs a good rad clean afterward. I think I spend 2-3 hours on maintenance and repair for every hour offroading
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Hello Steven, if none of the prior forum suggestions fix the problem you may wish to review and compare your system performance to that of a typical RV8 system in terms of
# unimpeded water flow through all the components,
# the ability of the system to hold 15 psi with nil air locks, and
# enabling the fan controlled airflow to efficiently extract all the heat transferred the from the engine to the radiator, especially at low road speed.
Yes I know all that is obvious but HOW to make it happen?
Read/download the PDF available from my web page
http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pag ... ing01.html
and discover ALL the possible associated fault conditions and how to eliminate them.
Even though your cooling system is atypical you will still be able to adapt the suggestions contained there-in.
# unimpeded water flow through all the components,
# the ability of the system to hold 15 psi with nil air locks, and
# enabling the fan controlled airflow to efficiently extract all the heat transferred the from the engine to the radiator, especially at low road speed.
Yes I know all that is obvious but HOW to make it happen?
Read/download the PDF available from my web page
http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pag ... ing01.html
and discover ALL the possible associated fault conditions and how to eliminate them.
Even though your cooling system is atypical you will still be able to adapt the suggestions contained there-in.
These are what are fitted to a lot of Land Rover V8s in Oz in place of the OEM mechanical fan - 5.0 litre V8 EL Ford Falcon V8 twin thermo fans (1996-99 model)
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ford-Falcon- ... 27b3e0608b
An easy modification as they come with integral schroud which can be trimmed down to LR radiator. These fans really kick ass pulling a huge amount of air through the radiators, much more than any of the aftermarket varieties. And they can be found cheap at any auto dismantler.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ford-Falcon- ... 27b3e0608b
An easy modification as they come with integral schroud which can be trimmed down to LR radiator. These fans really kick ass pulling a huge amount of air through the radiators, much more than any of the aftermarket varieties. And they can be found cheap at any auto dismantler.