Which route to go?

Post by **Coops** » Thu Jul 22, 2010 4:25 pm

right trying workout the best way to go with the rear of the cappa,

do i go all out and 4 link it, then have mot issues and have a risk of going sva?

or try and make better what we have now?.

kiwicar · Post by **kiwicar** » Thu Jul 22, 2010 4:56 pm

Hi Tony
are you sure you will have SVA/ MOT issues? if you stay with a live axel and use the existing suspension mounting points just appropriatly strengthened I cant see any issues as you will not have changed the chassis or the suspension type. If you tie in the extra upper link locations to the cage that the MOT bods are already happy with then you should be ok. After all look at all the MGB, MK1 & MK2 escorts and loads of hotrods who have fitted 4 & 5 link kits. Have a hunt on the MG websites as I'm sure they have met this before. As far as I can see it more than anything they don't want you hacking chunks out the chassis and weakening it, if it was a case of just changing the chassis then your roll cage is a far bigger change than anything else.
Best regards
Mike

Post by **Coops** » Thu Jul 22, 2010 9:10 pm

is there any sites etc that can help a novice like me doing a 4 link from scratch?
like step by step guide type of thing?
or is it buy a book and read?

kiwicar · Post by **kiwicar** » Fri Jul 23, 2010 9:30 am

Hi Tony
PM sent
Mike

gelmonkey · Post by **gelmonkey** » Fri Jul 23, 2010 2:09 pm

thev8kid wrote:is there any sites etc that can help a novice like me doing a 4 link from scratch?
like step by step guide type of thing?
or is it buy a book and read?

Mike do you know of a site etc?
Would like to be in on that myself need to fit an 8" to my car in the not too distant.
Cheers
P

kiwicar · Post by **kiwicar** » Fri Jul 23, 2010 2:39 pm

Hi Paul
there is a very good book on the subject of 3, 4 & 5 link suspensions and how to build them and set them up called Chassis engineering (it includes chassis design aswell!.
I only have one copy to lend out, but it would be £10 very well spent if you got your own copy.
Best regards
Mike
PS I don't know of any websites I'm 'fraid

ian.stewart · Post by **ian.stewart** » Fri Jul 23, 2010 2:53 pm

One option that seems to be ingored is a Torque arm, mount it off the diff and up to the pivot point similar to the prop/gearbox UJ with a big FO rose joint, and triangulated to mount top and bottom of the diff with one or both adjustable for setting pinion angle, then a panhard rod to locate the axle laterally

kiwicar · Post by **kiwicar** » Fri Jul 23, 2010 3:03 pm

Hi Ian
it is covered said book it is included and a very interesting variation that reduces wheel hop under breaking that can be an issue if you try and put in negative squat (ie lift) under acceleration. It really is a very good book.
Best regards
Mike

gelmonkey · Post by **gelmonkey** » Fri Jul 23, 2010 9:47 pm

Hi Guys
I have already got that book and found it pretty good reading although it does not really cover the step by step instructions that I would want.
Don't want to spend another 12yrs putting a back axle in

Cheers
P

kiwicar · Post by **kiwicar** » Sat Jul 24, 2010 12:00 pm

Hi Paul
oh well I thought it pretty good

I think you will have trouble getting a full step by step guide to a given car, however I think you can get alot form looking at other kits and setups. I think the first thing is decide your useage and think which is most suitable, a 5 link kit gives you the most rigid set up, good for circute rally and drag racing but not necesserily for road use, a 4 link set up may be easier to install and be more flexable and give a better ridebut allow axel tramp. you need to decide mounting points available to you both on the chassis and axel. Personally I would go for 5 link as it is more ajustable. you can normally mount the chassis brackets to the existing spring bracketsand extending them up inside the wheel arch to give the upper mounting for the top links. The shock mounts can be used if beefed up, especially if they are tied into the roll cage, the issue can be how to mount the panardrod/ watts linkage. If it was to go on the road you would definatly need rubber bushes at one end in the top links rose joints at the other. The top links should generally be horizontal with the lower ones pointing up at the front, several mounting holes for both links should be provided so you can adjust the amount of anti squat.
Best regards
Mike

kiwicar · Post by **kiwicar** » Mon Aug 09, 2010 1:17 pm

Hi Tony and Paul
have you had a look on Pop browns at their 4 link + panard rod kit, http://www.popbrowns.co.uk/products2.html I think is is intended for a ford pop but to be honest I recon you could easily adapt it to pretty much anything with a set of chassis brackets.
Best regards
Mike

mgbv8 · Post by **mgbv8** » Mon Aug 09, 2010 8:42 pm

This is the one I'm looking at for next year. It just bolts straight in with no drilling required

I have it on good advice from a mate that it took him 8 hours to fit. That means it will take me about 3 hours

Now I just got to save up for it ......
http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewP ... dexID=8074