If there is no seat, no seat belt is required. And even if there is no seat, and still a seat belt fitted, it cannot be deemed a seat belt for the purposes of the test.kiwicar wrote:Hi
Before you bin the rear seat belts check that you don't have to register it as a 2 seater to avoid MOT hassels. It always used to be that if you just took the rear seats out it still counted as a 4 seater for MOT purposes and you needed the rear belts for the MOT (unless you also registared it as a 2 seater).
Best regards
Mike
Audi B5 420-R: The Build
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stevieturbo
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Hi Steviestevieturbo wrote:If there is no seat, no seat belt is required. And even if there is no seat, and still a seat belt fitted, it cannot be deemed a seat belt for the purposes of the test.kiwicar wrote:Hi
Before you bin the rear seat belts check that you don't have to register it as a 2 seater to avoid MOT hassels. It always used to be that if you just took the rear seats out it still counted as a 4 seater for MOT purposes and you needed the rear belts for the MOT (unless you also registared it as a 2 seater).
Best regards
Mike
this is why I am saying check, many moons ago I had a ralley Mini that had the rear seats removed and a cage with a diagonal bar across where the seat was, you could not fit a person in the back seat area because the front seats were so far back, but the shell had belt mounting points though they had never been used, I had an MOT man get all pedantic about rear seat belts, in the end I found a set and bolted them to the mounts, got an MOT, the other alternative I was given was to register it as a 2 seater, as I say check it out.
Best regards
Mike
poppet valves rule!
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stevieturbo
- Forum Contributor
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- Joined: Sat Nov 18, 2006 6:22 pm
- Location: Northern Ireland
Update 09th October 2012:
My remote oil filter housing turned up today.
Very well crafted out of solid billet aluminium, it's better than the pictures on the purchase website conveyed, really pleased with it. It will accept an Audi S4 spin-off canister filter, or any other filter with 3/4 UNF fitting. Of course Audi will be my choice brand.
I shall be replacing the screw-in central oil tube with a custom-made longer one, as I'm going to run two oil coolers - an air-to-oil cooler sandwich plate, with thermostatic control. The thermostat will keep the oil no lower than 86 degrees. And I'll be runninbg an OEM Audi S4 water-cooled oil cooler.
My reasons for running both are simple - a water-cooled oil cooler also acts as a heat-exchanger. This means the oil will draw heat from the coolant, which aids warm-up times. Coolant generally heats up quicker than oil. However, it has its draw-backs. A heat exchanger works best at low to medium engine speeds, this makes it ideal for normal road use. Sustained high rpm can see the oil temperature rise more than is desirable on a race / track car.
An air-to-air oil cooler works best at higher road speeds, whereby the external matric can use air from the front of the car to cool the oil within. The thermostat in the sandwich plate will ensure the oil isn't over-cooled. Air-to-air oil coolers aren't very efficient at low speeds, unless you have room to mount a cooling fan on the matrix. Hence I'm combining both coolers, with both benefits.
Pictures!
Awaiting the arrival of the sandwich plate, Audi S4 heat exchanger and external matrix. The stainless braided oil lines will be custom made, once the engine and oil filter housing are mounted in the car.
#JusticeforAluu4
My remote oil filter housing turned up today.
Very well crafted out of solid billet aluminium, it's better than the pictures on the purchase website conveyed, really pleased with it. It will accept an Audi S4 spin-off canister filter, or any other filter with 3/4 UNF fitting. Of course Audi will be my choice brand.
I shall be replacing the screw-in central oil tube with a custom-made longer one, as I'm going to run two oil coolers - an air-to-oil cooler sandwich plate, with thermostatic control. The thermostat will keep the oil no lower than 86 degrees. And I'll be runninbg an OEM Audi S4 water-cooled oil cooler.
My reasons for running both are simple - a water-cooled oil cooler also acts as a heat-exchanger. This means the oil will draw heat from the coolant, which aids warm-up times. Coolant generally heats up quicker than oil. However, it has its draw-backs. A heat exchanger works best at low to medium engine speeds, this makes it ideal for normal road use. Sustained high rpm can see the oil temperature rise more than is desirable on a race / track car.
An air-to-air oil cooler works best at higher road speeds, whereby the external matric can use air from the front of the car to cool the oil within. The thermostat in the sandwich plate will ensure the oil isn't over-cooled. Air-to-air oil coolers aren't very efficient at low speeds, unless you have room to mount a cooling fan on the matrix. Hence I'm combining both coolers, with both benefits.
Pictures!
Awaiting the arrival of the sandwich plate, Audi S4 heat exchanger and external matrix. The stainless braided oil lines will be custom made, once the engine and oil filter housing are mounted in the car.
#JusticeforAluu4
2000 Audi B5 420-R, Pelican Blue:Work In Progress.
2000 Audi B5 420-R DTM, Santorin Blue: Work In Progress.
2000 Audi B5 420-R DTM, Santorin Blue: Work In Progress.
Mike, no lower than 86 degrees. So it may be higher.kiwicar wrote:Hi
Why do you wish to run the oil so cold? do you have a specific oil in mind that is intended to run at that temp?
Best regards
Mike
#JusticeforAluu4
2000 Audi B5 420-R, Pelican Blue:Work In Progress.
2000 Audi B5 420-R DTM, Santorin Blue: Work In Progress.
2000 Audi B5 420-R DTM, Santorin Blue: Work In Progress.
Update 10th October 2012:
My clutch pressure plate turned up, I got a call from my Audi dealership, to say it was here, so I made the trip down, to pick it up.
I thought it would be similar to that of the B5 S4 / RS4, but it's different. The diaphram springs are a lot stiffer, and at a different angle, so will have a greater clamping force. Fitted to the flywheel, it has a stack height of 85,0mm.
So pretty much ready to mount the lot to the engine, and then bolt the engine to the tranny. Next step will be to pull the 2,6 V6 12V engine and 5-speed manual tranny from the B5 A4 quattro, and clean up the bay. I also want to remove the secondary firewall, and prep the whole bay for paint, before the engine goes in. I'm painting the engine bay satin black.
#JusticeforAluu4
My clutch pressure plate turned up, I got a call from my Audi dealership, to say it was here, so I made the trip down, to pick it up.
I thought it would be similar to that of the B5 S4 / RS4, but it's different. The diaphram springs are a lot stiffer, and at a different angle, so will have a greater clamping force. Fitted to the flywheel, it has a stack height of 85,0mm.
So pretty much ready to mount the lot to the engine, and then bolt the engine to the tranny. Next step will be to pull the 2,6 V6 12V engine and 5-speed manual tranny from the B5 A4 quattro, and clean up the bay. I also want to remove the secondary firewall, and prep the whole bay for paint, before the engine goes in. I'm painting the engine bay satin black.
#JusticeforAluu4
2000 Audi B5 420-R, Pelican Blue:Work In Progress.
2000 Audi B5 420-R DTM, Santorin Blue: Work In Progress.
2000 Audi B5 420-R DTM, Santorin Blue: Work In Progress.
As this is going to be a road, as well as a track car, and in view of the fact the interior's completely gutted, I've decided to go further.
My initial plan was to remove the dash, chop it up, then reinstall just the portion that houses the instrument cluster. I've now had a change of plan - there'll be no dash whatsoever.
And in the interest of safety and good handling, I'm going to stiffen up the entire bodyshell. I'm having a full roll cage custom built, and welded in. This will be done after the New Year. The roll cage will be built to accommodate my race seat, a race seat for a front passenger who may wish to ride shotgun, and will also brace the rear-mounted radiator housing. Of course, with all the seat belts deleted, I'll be relying on full racing harnesses.
I was going to get rid of the ABS, but having checked with VOSA, the car won't pass an MOT. If ABS was an option on the Audi A4, I could get away with it. But as ABS was standard equipment on all Audi A4, it'll have to stay. Oh well.
#JusticeforAluu4
My initial plan was to remove the dash, chop it up, then reinstall just the portion that houses the instrument cluster. I've now had a change of plan - there'll be no dash whatsoever.
And in the interest of safety and good handling, I'm going to stiffen up the entire bodyshell. I'm having a full roll cage custom built, and welded in. This will be done after the New Year. The roll cage will be built to accommodate my race seat, a race seat for a front passenger who may wish to ride shotgun, and will also brace the rear-mounted radiator housing. Of course, with all the seat belts deleted, I'll be relying on full racing harnesses.
I was going to get rid of the ABS, but having checked with VOSA, the car won't pass an MOT. If ABS was an option on the Audi A4, I could get away with it. But as ABS was standard equipment on all Audi A4, it'll have to stay. Oh well.
#JusticeforAluu4
2000 Audi B5 420-R, Pelican Blue:Work In Progress.
2000 Audi B5 420-R DTM, Santorin Blue: Work In Progress.
2000 Audi B5 420-R DTM, Santorin Blue: Work In Progress.
While awaiting a few bits and pieces, I decided to give the engine a bit of a clean-up.
The first parts I tackled, were the aluminum front timing belt covers. These were a standard grey, and looking a bit sorry for themselves. Of course, getting them prepared for paint involved removing them from the engine itself. The viscous fan assembly is fitted to the larger of the covers, on the right-hand side. The fan cam off okay, but the large 32mm nut proved a b1tch to remove.
I attacked it with everything I could throw at it - chisels, hammers, 32mm spanner, more hammering. It just wouldn't shift. In the end, my best friend came to the rescue - Mr Angle Grinder! ;D
I had to literally chop the viscous clutch to bits, then grind the bearing down till it fell off. Then I ground the edges of the 32mm nut down, so I could slide off the belt pulley, which itself is held in place by three 10mm bolts. This then gave me access to the three all bolts that held the assembly to the timing cover.I think the heat from the constant grinding, and beating with a sledge hammer took its toll on the fan shaft bearing, as it feels rough, and no wonder! I priced up a new one from Audi - £257 + VAT!! I went with A8 Parts for a good used one heaps cheaper (thanks Dave!)
The hardest job was removing the spring-loaded belt tensioner from the cover, what a beast. I etched the covers, cleaned thoroughly with methylated spirit, before applying two coats of primer, followed by three coats of dark green gloss. This gives an idea what the car's new color's going to be...
I'll be removing and painting the rocker covers, the alternator, starter motor, crank pulley, then finally the block and intake manifold.
Pictures of the timing belt covers as they were on the engine, and after paint. Ignore the fancy aluminum crank pulley, that won't be used, as it will only fit the 40V motor.
Wait a minute - are those Naija colors I spot here?
#JusticeforAluu4
The first parts I tackled, were the aluminum front timing belt covers. These were a standard grey, and looking a bit sorry for themselves. Of course, getting them prepared for paint involved removing them from the engine itself. The viscous fan assembly is fitted to the larger of the covers, on the right-hand side. The fan cam off okay, but the large 32mm nut proved a b1tch to remove.
I attacked it with everything I could throw at it - chisels, hammers, 32mm spanner, more hammering. It just wouldn't shift. In the end, my best friend came to the rescue - Mr Angle Grinder! ;D
I had to literally chop the viscous clutch to bits, then grind the bearing down till it fell off. Then I ground the edges of the 32mm nut down, so I could slide off the belt pulley, which itself is held in place by three 10mm bolts. This then gave me access to the three all bolts that held the assembly to the timing cover.I think the heat from the constant grinding, and beating with a sledge hammer took its toll on the fan shaft bearing, as it feels rough, and no wonder! I priced up a new one from Audi - £257 + VAT!! I went with A8 Parts for a good used one heaps cheaper (thanks Dave!)
The hardest job was removing the spring-loaded belt tensioner from the cover, what a beast. I etched the covers, cleaned thoroughly with methylated spirit, before applying two coats of primer, followed by three coats of dark green gloss. This gives an idea what the car's new color's going to be...
I'll be removing and painting the rocker covers, the alternator, starter motor, crank pulley, then finally the block and intake manifold.
Pictures of the timing belt covers as they were on the engine, and after paint. Ignore the fancy aluminum crank pulley, that won't be used, as it will only fit the 40V motor.
Wait a minute - are those Naija colors I spot here?
#JusticeforAluu4
2000 Audi B5 420-R, Pelican Blue:Work In Progress.
2000 Audi B5 420-R DTM, Santorin Blue: Work In Progress.
2000 Audi B5 420-R DTM, Santorin Blue: Work In Progress.
Are there bolts on the pump bolt pulley? I made up a tool out of 30 x 5mm strip steel which fits round two of those heads to lock it while you undo the coupling nut. Being a left hand thread, there's no need for it to be very tight - but it often is. Don't go mad with the new one. 
Dave
London SW
Rover SD1 VDP EFI
MegaSquirt2 V3
EDIS8
Tech Edge 2Y
London SW
Rover SD1 VDP EFI
MegaSquirt2 V3
EDIS8
Tech Edge 2Y
Dave, there are three 10mm bolts on the fan spindle - the water pump is internal, timing-belt driven.
The 10mm bolts are right-hand thread, the central big coupling is indeed left-hand. I'm not running the viscous fan at any rate, twin electric aircon fans off a P38 Range Rover will take care of the cooling business.
Thanks for your advice, it's much appreciated.
#JusticeforAluu4
The 10mm bolts are right-hand thread, the central big coupling is indeed left-hand. I'm not running the viscous fan at any rate, twin electric aircon fans off a P38 Range Rover will take care of the cooling business.
Thanks for your advice, it's much appreciated.
#JusticeforAluu4
2000 Audi B5 420-R, Pelican Blue:Work In Progress.
2000 Audi B5 420-R DTM, Santorin Blue: Work In Progress.
2000 Audi B5 420-R DTM, Santorin Blue: Work In Progress.
