Rover v8 wade ro34 Questions.

[stagcar]

Hi all,

I am new to this site so here goes.

I have just Purchased an Opel manta with a P6 v8 fitted with thick head gaskets

The car has had a ford 9" diff fitted and has a nice set of Image LAMBO rims fitted so the car should handle the power ok.

The chap i got it of had a Wade RO34 supercharger mocked up on it

All that's needed to finish is a belt and tensioner.

I have got a landrover 101 engine that has had a full army rebuild and is running very low compresion pistons its also got double valve springs fitted and i have done a bit of porting and flowing on the heads.

I recon this would be a better bet than the p6 with thicker head gasskets?

My plan is to get the car mot'ed with the p6 engine running a edelbrok manifold and holley390 then rip the engine out pop the old 101 in there fitted with the right cam for the job and the p6 timing case.

What do you think?

Also would i have to do any thing with the timing so it dident advance to much at higher revs? change the dissy waights?

Would this setup be ok to run with the holley 390 vac secondery?

Now i also have a NOS cheater kit i recon this may finish of a little 3.5 rover already fitted with a blower? may be some forged pistons?

I have found a post from the old owner of the car it seems he was having problems getting a tensioner for the blower. I am happy to make one up and have a go

Sorry for all the questions and the rubbish spelling.

Many thanks
Derek

[kiwicar]

Hello welcome
Considering your engines, in both cases the P6 heads (even ported as far as they will go) will never outflow standard SD1 and later heads so if you are looking to upgrade at any point SD1s are worth about 15 BHP over P6.
the 101 engine is designed to be a low power unit, it has a restrictor in the inlet manifold and the MGBv8 cam, they combine with the low compression to give about 90BHP as standard, compared to about 125 - 130 out of a standard P6. So if you are going to use the 101 lump change the cam (and lifters) to somthing with more duration, and a bit more lift but watch for valve springs binding, double ones especially bind at very moderate lift.
Alot of supercharged engines fail because people lower the compression too far for their boost and do it in a way opens up the squish area. You don't say how much boost you are planning to use, but with say a 3.9 rover efi cam and say 12 psi boost you want about 8.5:1 to 9:1 compression, but you must have the squish band (gap between the top of the pistons and the flat face of the head) in the region of about .035" to .045" much wider it will detonate. If you have an engine intended for tin gaskets and fit comp ones without decking the block it will open the squish band too far.
I hope this is of some help, if you can let us know more detail on the CR of the 101, how much boost you intend to use and if you plan things like a charge cooler then be more spacific.
Best regards
Mike

[stagcar]

Hello welcome
Considering your engines, in both cases the P6 heads (even ported as far as they will go) will never outflow standard SD1 and later heads so if you are looking to upgrade at any point SD1s are worth about 15 BHP over P6.
the 101 engine is designed to be a low power unit, it has a restrictor in the inlet manifold and the MGBv8 cam, they combine with the low compression to give about 90BHP as standard, compared to about 125 - 130 out of a standard P6. So if you are going to use the 101 lump change the cam (and lifters) to somthing with more duration, and a bit more lift but watch for valve springs binding, double ones especially bind at very moderate lift.
Alot of supercharged engines fail because people lower the compression too far for their boost and do it in a way opens up the squish area. You don't say how much boost you are planning to use, but with say a 3.9 rover efi cam and say 12 psi boost you want about 8.5:1 to 9:1 compression, but you must have the squish band (gap between the top of the pistons and the flat face of the head) in the region of about .035" to .045" much wider it will detonate. If you have an engine intended for tin gaskets and fit comp ones without decking the block it will open the squish band too far.
I hope this is of some help, if you can let us know more detail on the CR of the 101, how much boost you intend to use and if you plan things like a charge cooler then be more spacific.
Best regards
Mike[/quote

Great Mike thanks for all the good info.

It looks like i will be going the 101 engine rout just becuse its been totaly rebuilt.

I have manged to get hold of 2 of the later heads i think there of a 3.9 still with the 14 bolt patten so should bolt strait on with a bit of luck they will get a valve grind and the very least.

As for the 101 engine i have no idea what the final CR will be but i can say it was pumping out about 85psi when i checked it on the compresion checker not sure if that will help?

i don't intend to use any charge cooler or any thing not that sure if i could get one in there.

Also not sure on what sort of boost level i will be runing what should i be aming for on a 3.5L?

I have just had the old p6 engine running without the SC and it dosent sound to bad got a bit of a carb problem so i wil post that in the other carb bit

My main plan is to get the car thru the MOT with the old p6 engine then build up the 101 with the supercharger and fit it.

Thanks again for your help
Cheers
Derek

[topcatcustom]

Guessing 6-7psi maybe more on your low comp engine, you should check the piston ring gaps on every piston first- bit more important with blown motors.

[kiwicar]

If the heads you have are for composit gaskets then you wll have chambers around 28cc, if not tins around 36cc, from memory a 101 engine runs 8 to 8.5:1 compression, either way I would fit Tin gaskets (leave out the outer bolts on the heads), if you fit 36cc heads and composite gaskets you will be running a CR in the high 7s and it will be a hound ergardless what boost you run, It would be worth mesuring the chamber volume to find out. 28cc and tins should give you compression in the very low 9:1 region in which case you should be able to run boost up to aroung 10 to 12 PSI safely you could go for slightly lower CR and more boost, but I think you will end up with an engine that isn't very plesent to drive. I would change the cam and pocket port the heads though, (and fit decent exhaust manifolds and system) it will make the engine much nicer to drive.
Best regards
Mike

[stagcar]

If the heads you have are for composit gaskets then you wll have chambers around 28cc, if not tins around 36cc, from memory a 101 engine runs 8 to 8.5:1 compression, either way I would fit Tin gaskets (leave out the outer bolts on the heads), if you fit 36cc heads and composite gaskets you will be running a CR in the high 7s and it will be a hound ergardless what boost you run, It would be worth mesuring the chamber volume to find out. 28cc and tins should give you compression in the very low 9:1 region in which case you should be able to run boost up to aroung 10 to 12 PSI safely you could go for slightly lower CR and more boost, but I think you will end up with an engine that isn't very plesent to drive. I would change the cam and pocket port the heads though, (and fit decent exhaust manifolds and system) it will make the engine much nicer to drive.
Best regards
Mike

Thanks again mike for all the good info.

I have just ordered a new blower cam with standard followers and a duplex chain set o and some very expensive ARP head bolts so should have all i need to do the job.
javascript:emoticon(':)')
one last question where is the best place to purchase a supercharger belt from?
and where is the tooth pitch of the belt mesured?

Many thanks
Derek

[kiwicar]

For toothed belts I rely on posting up the code number on here and getting someone who knows about these things to work it out for me . Kevin the mole recently helped me out with a toothed belt for my oil pump (worked out what I had and found me a longer one that fitted) he works for a place that sells such things and he sold me one It would be worth asking him to help.
Best regards
Mike

[stagcar]

For toothed belts I rely on posting up the code number on here and getting someone who knows about these things to work it out for me . Kevin the mole recently helped me out with a toothed belt for my oil pump (worked out what I had and found me a longer one that fitted) he works for a place that sells such things and he sold me one It would be worth asking him to help.
Best regards
Mike

Great stuff Mike javascript:emoticon(':D')
i have just pm'd him so i will wait and see if not will post somthing up here later.

the big problem is it has no belt at all so no partnumbers or any thing still i will track one down in the end

Many thanks for all you help matejavascript:emoticon(':nw')

Cheers
Derek

[sowen]

Your car sounds like this Opel Manta on Retro Rides, build thread here

If so, here's the wade ro34 with drive snout and pulley:



I was watching this as it was a little further ahead of my installation, and would also like to know where to get a belt from over here in the UK, apart from shipping one over the pond from the USA.

[kiwicar]

"I was watching this as it was a little further ahead of my installation, and would also like to know where to get a belt from over here in the UK, apart from shipping one over the pond from the USA."

Er see post above, talk to Mr Mole
Also some other suggestions following my on the subject of toothed belts in the general chat area http://www.v8forum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6629
Mike

[stagcar]

Your car sounds like this Opel Manta on Retro Rides, build thread here

If so, here's the wade ro34 with drive snout and pulley:



I was watching this as it was a little further ahead of my installation, and would also like to know where to get a belt from over here in the UK, apart from shipping one over the pond from the USA.

Hi Mate,

Yes it is the same car and that is the supercharger and holly you have the picture of

The chap sold the lot to me becuse he lost his garage and being a big opel manta fan i just had to have it!

Any way i have sent the mole a PM but its not looking to good becuse i havent got an old one with the PN

I will let you know how i get on mate if any thing turns up i will let you know

are you all so wadeing a rover v8? or is it going on somthing else?

Cheers
Derek

[sowen]

I have a Rover p6, and a 3.9 sitting behind it with a Wade lying close by. I've sourced my pulleys from the USA, but haven't bought a belt for it as I don't know how long it needs to be yet, as I'm still to finish the manifold to mount the Wade to make the vital measurements. I really need to get the rest of the car finished before I continue with the engine build.

The pulley on your snout looks like the 8mm toothed pulley, though I chose to use the 1/2" toothed pulleys on mine. Both types seemed to come in a wide variety of lengths to choose from when I was looking at buying pulleys, but shipping them over and getting stung by the vat man isn't particularly appealing at the moment.

[kev_the_mole]

I make pulleys too and have had them fitted to interesting engines since Dan Gurney approached us for drives for his Weslake V12's

[bigaldart]

Look for a Gates belt supplier in the uk. A lot of agricultural equipment uses the belts so there are suppliers scattered over the country. We use 8mm Taperlock pulleys as opposed to the typical american style aluminium ones. No problems at all with them, they locate with a key and use allen screws to secure. Swap one screw to another hole and it acts as a puller to break the taper. Very flexible and masses of sizes available.

Be careful with the wade though as they don't live long at higher rpm's On a road car aim for 5,500 maximum blower speed.

Alan

[topcatcustom]

When I got to the belt stage I just noted the tooth pitch of the pulleys, 8mm, slung a tape round the lot where the belt would run and saw my local guy (Essex Bearings) who is always very helpful and got the nearest one. There should be a fair bit of adjustment with the idler/tensioner.