RV8 Twin Turbo Esprit Help!!

ChrisJC · Post by **ChrisJC** » Tue Dec 15, 2009 8:50 pm

Cutting down the distributor won't make the engine any shorter..... You need a distributorless timing cover for that.

A harmonic balancer is nothing to do with engine balance. It stops torsional vibrations from whizzing back & forth along the crankshaft, building up at certain frequencies until it busts. In other words, it stops the crank behaving like a torsional bell! I have no idea what you would use for a home-made version.

Chris.

wayneb911 · Post by **wayneb911** » Tue Dec 15, 2009 9:06 pm

Chris

Loosing the distributor would give me more space for pipework etc and its just another declutter and modernisation of the engine. What would i use in place. Im not up with EFI and electronic ignition. Dont think i have seen another rover v8 engine with twin turbo's and EFI. Is there any out there??

kiwicar · Post by **kiwicar** » Tue Dec 15, 2009 9:34 pm

"I have no idea what you would use for a home-made version."

A harmonic ballancer is realy one of those things I would buy, to build one you either need to be able to vulcanise rubber to attach an outer damping mass ring to an inner mounting bit, not very practical. Or build an unburstable case to contain a cylindrical mass and some silicon hypo viscouse gungy stuff, as a do it yourself job you have to be pretty sure of your ability to build one of these in such a way that it won't fall apart spectaculally when you miss a gear and spin the engine to 8.5K revs.
Best regards
Mike

SuperV8 · Post by **SuperV8** » Wed Dec 16, 2009 1:16 pm

Dont think i have seen another rover v8 engine with twin turbo's and EFI. Is there any out there??

Supercharged (nearly turbo) 3.5 V8, no dizy, using 2x ford coil packs, trigger wheel bolted to range rover front pulley, megasquirt does the rest, fires the coil packs and controls the ignition/ fuel .

I just cut the dizy in half with a hacksaw just above the step where the clamp secures it. With no dizy all it's doing is transfering the drive from the end of the CAM to the oil pump. Once the dizy is in bits it's easy to see where it would need to be cut.

Tom.

wayneb911 · Post by **wayneb911** » Wed Dec 16, 2009 7:35 pm

Dave

Looks great any more pics of the supercharger etc as couldnt see i in pic?? What sort of HP is it running?

SuperV8 · Post by **SuperV8** » Thu Dec 17, 2009 1:01 pm

Thanks,
I never had it rolling roaded, so don't know HP. I did a 12.9 @ 103 1/4. I was a fair bit quicker than a 200bhp N/A cosworth Dax Rush at the same event. It felt noticably quicker with the supercharger even though I was only getting 3psi during WOT. lots of belt slip with the v-belt.

It's quite a tight fit down there!

wayneb911 · Post by **wayneb911** » Thu Dec 17, 2009 3:18 pm

looks like a bloody good use of space to me. What sort of money are you looking at for adding a supercharger? im assuming you get the same compliaction seither way to a turbo setup??

kiwicar · Post by **kiwicar** » Thu Dec 17, 2009 3:44 pm

This type of super charger is simpler to match to an engine than a pair of turbos, generally easier on the bottom end of the engine and on the rest of the transmission too. However it will never match a well matched and set up turbo engine for accelleration for a given power output and boost level you just don't get the increase in torque. Depends really where you are starting from engine wise and what you want to end up with. I would think this set up in a lotus 7 replica is about ideal as it will increase the power and usable rev range of an otherwise pretty standard engine without increasing the torque so much that the tyres spin in every gear. In your esprit I would think either would work well, but with the turbo engine you would probably have more issues with under bonnet temperatures and charge cooling, as I said it also depends where you are starting from.
Mike

SuperV8 · Post by **SuperV8** » Thu Dec 17, 2009 4:58 pm

I agree, I think ultimatly turbo route it better, could even have boost controller to help make torque delivery smoother.

For me ultimatley packaging was the main issue, no space and I didn't want to hack my 2K exhaust to bits

A bolt on supercharger is easy, just needs a bracket and plumbing and there are loads of second hand centrifugal blowers on ebay (america) I paid £700 from mine from america 2nd hand but luckily as new (it's a risk!)

wayneb911 · Post by **wayneb911** » Thu Dec 17, 2009 8:41 pm

Well i will still be running the twin turbo's. Here is a couple of pictures of a guy who i am in contact with. Colour not my tast but engine is. Ideally tho by running EFi etc i can go for a look that will hopefully look more like it was originally in the car. Going to change the red block to black also with just black silicone hoses and some big pipes running around. Im one for keeping things fairly stock looking just with added goodness and slight modernisation when it comes to the bodywork.

Also a couple of my previouse project which i only sold to start a business with my father in law.

This started life as a standard narrow bodied 911. Oh and its a 1977!!

Miss it but onto new things now.

Few pics of the lotus as well

The plan of the layout

ChrisJC · Post by **ChrisJC** » Fri Dec 18, 2009 8:17 am

With ref to the carbs, (and apologies if you already know this), but if you can source a pair of carbs from a Montego or Maestro Turbo, they make a good starting point. Otherwise you need to modify the existing carbs to accept an input pressure higher than atmospheric.

Another option is 2" SU's from Jag straight sixes or Rolls Royce V8's. I have the Jag version on my 4.6 V8 (linkages modified and hand reversed on one of them). The inlet manifold can be ported to 2" with a bit of care. But you would still have to modify them to be boosted.

Chris.

wayneb911 · Post by **wayneb911** » Fri Dec 18, 2009 8:35 am

Hi Chris

My drawing was pre deciding to go EFI. Still going EFI now though. Thanks for the carb advice anyway.

ChrisJC · Post by **ChrisJC** » Fri Dec 18, 2009 9:00 am

OK, I wasn't sure which way you were swinging!

Chris.

andyv8van · Post by **andyv8van** » Fri Dec 18, 2009 7:28 pm

Hi,

this is the way i made my cut down,removed the shaft and top bush, cut the dizzy top off, replaced the top bush down lower and turned the top flat.
Made a new steel top ring and cut n welded the shaft to suit, fitted a thin shim to take make sure it was not too tight after the welding.

refitted the shaft and will use the lower drive gear thats fitted aready in the engine dizzy.

i hope its some help

Andy