What Turbo For RV8???

stevieturbo · Post by **stevieturbo** » Thu Dec 28, 2006 9:14 pm

Fed-Ex, DHL, TNT, UPS etc etc, mean you can have those deals Tony.

Figure on around £2-300 for shipping, and its still not gona be that bad ???

bill shurvinton · Post by **bill shurvinton** » Fri Dec 29, 2006 10:43 pm

HairbearTE wrote:Prob with RR's is that the same engine will record 2 different figures in 2 different cars. Cars with very lightweight drivetrain such as ally flywheels, small clutches, light wheels and discs and even narrower drive wheels will record better figs than a car equipped with a more standard driveline, but fitted with the same engine. What you're really getting from an RR is the HP of your car, not your engine. They are of course very useful for back to back testing and tuning of a vehicle though.

Since I have started this canc of worms I do need to elucidate a little. A decent rolling road that has a coast down capability will give the same corrected flywheel number whether you are in a light or heavy car, whether you have a 5lb or 50lb flywheel, wide or narrow tyres 4th or 5th gear.

I have seen comparisons between an engine dyno and Sun RAM 12 where they overlay to within 1% (which is the order of accuracy of either type of measurement anyway). Same engine, same ancilliaries, just one run in the car, one out the car.

One of the problems is that there are a lot of inertial only dynos out there that can't do a coast down (dynojet) and a lot of dyno operators that prefer to give the customer the number they want to hear. Dynos in the UK I would trust based on experience are

1. Emerald
2. Track and Road (rainham)
3. mech repairs (cheltenham)

There are others that have the right equipment to be able to do the job, but I have no evidence that they actually know how to use it properly. This is not to diss any of the other quality dyno operators in the UK but just to list the ones I know do a good job and don't care if the customer is disappointed with a number that was lower than the sum of all the numbers on the tuning aids they had bought.

The other problem is the sheer amount of carp around about rolling roads. Sadly in a lot of cases it is the dyno operators spreading it. The proliferation of dynojet units in the USA doesn't help as the numbers they give aren't worth anything in absolute terms.

But if you have a flywheel number from any of the 3 rolling roads listed above then you can be confident that number is correct within the accuracy of the torque measurement (usually 1 or 2% of full scale).

Post by **Coops** » Fri Dec 29, 2006 10:45 pm

can we start a new topic regarding rolling roads etc please,

Eliot · Post by **Eliot** » Sat Dec 30, 2006 8:09 pm

This GT35 on ebay would work i reckon: Item: 270073619900

Found a map for a GT35 (not necessarily the one for sale mind you..)

At 7psi of boost your'e right at the bottom of the efficiency island, but has the legs in it to take you over 20psi of boost!. Which is a similar situation to the two T34's on my sbc.

stevieturbo · Post by **stevieturbo** » Sat Dec 30, 2006 8:14 pm

the GT series are NOT rebuildable at all....

Seriously, while excellent units, I'd stay away. If something goes wrong, you dont fix them, you throw them away. Seems strange that...

Take a look at Turbonetcs stuff. They are offering a 1 year no quibble warranty on their stuff. You break it, they fix it.
Cant beat that !!!!

A T66 would be similar to the GT35, if not a little bigger.

Eliot · Post by **Eliot** » Sat Dec 30, 2006 9:13 pm

stevieturbo wrote:the GT series are NOT rebuildable at all....
.

Right - that confirms what the guy at turbotechnics told me too then. I assumed they didn't have the equipment to do them.

bill shurvinton · Post by **bill shurvinton** » Sat Dec 30, 2006 10:00 pm

Are you absolutely sure about that Stevie? My understanding is that the bearing unit and shaft need to be thrown, but the turbine, compressor and housings are all reusable.

The thing I most like about the GT series is the blade designs are far more advanced than most of the competition (or at least were last time i checked, which was 12 months ago). However the increased efficiency is of little use in this particular application.

Personally I would say if the boost is going to be under 14PSI just go for the cheapest solution of a pair of stock cossy units/Rover T16 that will bolt to a cast turbo manifold. It is only at higher boost that you need to pore over the specs and worry about buying the most efficient units.

stevieturbo · Post by **stevieturbo** » Sun Dec 31, 2006 1:23 am

I enquired about a year or so ago about getting a compressor upgrade for a GT2835 turbo, which is a full GT BB unit.

I was simply told it cant be done... I was pretty shocked at that, and dont understnd why. If they can build them in the first place, why not just fit a bigger compressor ???

So obviously there is more to it than that. This was from a guy in the US, who builds, tests and does a serious amount of work with turbos.

TBH, Im no expert, but I'd say most of the modern cuppliers units will be on par with each other in terms of ability. Forget the old T serires crap ( although the T desingation is still used for sizing )

Innovative, Turbonetics or Precision are the big names in the US. I dont think the Precision stuff is fully rebuildable, but both Innovative and Turbonetics are. And Turbonetics are doing that superb warranty, plus they look cool

If doing a single install, I would buy new from one of those suppliers.

If doing twin, I'd probably source the cheapest decent units I could locally. A pair of GT28's of a Nissan or Rover turbo would do fine. Or a pair of Subaru TD04's would be had for buttons.
I dont see why you couldnt have a pair for way less than £500

ShortRound · Post by **ShortRound** » Sun Dec 31, 2006 12:00 pm

Hiya Kid,
Ya might find this interesting..... maybe

http://www.capa.com.au/kits_landrover.htm

Post by **Coops** » Sun Dec 31, 2006 12:05 pm

cheers for that SR.