ticks over nicely but loses power under load

[mcmental]

tonight is going to look like this

Blank off carb breathers
Blank gearbox mod at manifold
Blank brake servo at manifold
Borrow a timing light to see what it's set at
Place hands together
Pray

Try again

Hopefully jump with joy

[ramon alban]

Your method of setting up the ignition timing is WRONG.

Apart from your personal difficulty with the optional section, can you explain what is wrong here, and I'll make changes as appropriate?

Timing Procedure can vary according to the equipment being used but basically, with a simple stroboscopic timing lamp, ensure the setting is made below normal idle speed (say 600 rpm) and with the vacuum advance tube disconnected from the ported vacuum outlet. Loosen the clamping bolt just enough to allow the distributor to rotate. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions and set the timing to the recommended (or recalculated) figure. Reconnect the vacuum advance tube and readjust the idle speed to the normal setting. Secure the distributor clamping bolt, unless moving on to the next optional, but wholly appropriate empirical step.

[ramon alban]

Place hands together Pray Try again Hopefully jump with joy

Nice thinking Chris.

At some point in time, when you have gotten rid of your current problems (whatever they are), you may still find there is an ignition timing error.

I don't know how your ignition timing would be affected by your specific induction methods, but if your current timing is too retarded, then after making corrections you may find that the engine is pinking.

If this bothers you, a solution is to back off the timing in small steps until the pinking ceases.

One method of dealing with this is the empirical timing process which in simple terms can bring your timing to a point of reasonable efficiency and less worry.

Beyond that, studying your set-up on a dyno or perhaps a rolling road will then allow you to move your ignition timing to an even better setting.

[sidecar]

Your method of setting up the ignition timing is WRONG.

Apart from your personal difficulty with the optional section, can you explain what is wrong here, and I'll make changes as appropriate?

Timing Procedure can vary according to the equipment being used but basically, with a simple stroboscopic timing lamp, ensure the setting is made below normal idle speed (say 600 rpm) and with the vacuum advance tube disconnected from the ported vacuum outlet. Loosen the clamping bolt just enough to allow the distributor to rotate. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions and set the timing to the recommended (or recalculated) figure. Reconnect the vacuum advance tube and readjust the idle speed to the normal setting. Secure the distributor clamping bolt, unless moving on to the next optional, but wholly appropriate empirical step.

It not a 'personal difficulty' its a fact that the maximum pressure above the piston must be achieved when the crank is between 15 and 20 degrees after TDC if you want to set the timing up for maximum BHP, your method of advancing the ignition until pinging is heard then backing is off won't get the timing setup as I have just described.

With regards to the green text above well I did not say that everything you have written is wrong and it is hard to comment on just one section of your text when it has been taken out of context.

[mcmental]

Well it's still not working, borrowing a strobe tomorrow night to check it out.

After a chat with bob I'm now wondering if torque converter is locking?..

Bloody cars.......

[mcmental]

On a draw through system the dizzy vacuum advance pipe should be connected to the stub on the carb that it was originally connected to before you fitted the turbos.

If you connect it to the stub between the carb and turbo you will get full vacuum advance at tick over which is not the way the RV8 is normally set up.

Regards Denis

Denis is it possible to have a natter with you please?