Hello knowledgeable ones! I am (ever-so-)slowly rebuilding a 197 Rover 3500 P6 over in Berlin, Germany (currently a bare rolling shell awaiting extensive welding work!). I've been jokingly saying for years that there'll be no petrol left by the time I finish! Now I'm hearing that new legislation here will effectively ban historic cars from the inner cities, puts quite a damper on my enthusiasm to discover I won't even be able to use my car around where I live when I get it back on the road...
I don't know my stoichiometric point from my elbow. What would I have to do to fit a cat to my old 3.5litre V8 with it's twin SUs? Is there a forum user who can explain in absolute layman's terms what such a conversion would entail? I'm guessing an EFI set-up from say a later SD1, Land- or Range Rover or similar to start with (I've seen such set-ups plumbed in to a couple of modified P6s), plus what other bits'n'pieces?
Hope there's somebody out there who can enlighten me!
Retro-fit catalytic converter to 197 Rover P6 3500
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al mackenzie
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Retro-fit catalytic converter to 197 Rover P6 3500
'72 Rover 3500, 6yr back-to-the-bare-Base-Unit nut & bolt resto finished in time for her 40th birthday June 2012!
I doubt a cat would last long if you kept the su's as the fuelling isn't accurate enough. If I was doing this then I'd fit an efi engine from a late range rover or discovery.
You'd be better off buying a crashed discovery or something similar, that way, you'd have everything you need. a few years ago, I fitted a disco II 4.0 into a cortina (taunus in germany), it was a headache getting around the immobiliser which is built into the ecu, The way I got around it was to get hold of a BCU, fit the BCU and engine ECU to a discovery, configure the two together using T4 then fit them to the cortina, it worked in the end!
Cats get very hot so make sure there's adequate heat shielding on the floor of your car
You'd be better off buying a crashed discovery or something similar, that way, you'd have everything you need. a few years ago, I fitted a disco II 4.0 into a cortina (taunus in germany), it was a headache getting around the immobiliser which is built into the ecu, The way I got around it was to get hold of a BCU, fit the BCU and engine ECU to a discovery, configure the two together using T4 then fit them to the cortina, it worked in the end!
Cats get very hot so make sure there's adequate heat shielding on the floor of your car
) that if you run on LPG it burns so clean you don't need cats? Could you not convert to LPG?If you fit cats then you need to fit EFi to control the fuel mixtures accurately enough to protect the cats from damage. Mixtures that are too rich will cause the cats to overheat and destroy themselves.
Do you need to have cats fitted or merely be able to demonstrate low emissions figures on your annual testing?
You could install a hotwire system from a later RRC or Disco.
The changeover will involve;
Removing carby system with manifold.
Installing hotwire manifold, injectors, fuel rail, plenum, high pressure fuel pump, cats, lambda sensors in both front pipes, wiring loom and ECU.
If you want to be exact there is a version of the ECU to match a 3.5 used in early Discoveries but that would probably not be required, a 3.9 ECU would suffice.
As above, you would be best off buying the whole issue in one lot, and anything more modern than hotwire will involve lots of jiggerypokery. Not recommended.
Look at the wiring diagrams on this site to see what components make up the system. Do not expect all wiring looms to follow the same colour coding, they don't but it's not a big problem.
About to start a similar process on my LR but wont bother with the cats.
jw
Do you need to have cats fitted or merely be able to demonstrate low emissions figures on your annual testing?
You could install a hotwire system from a later RRC or Disco.
The changeover will involve;
Removing carby system with manifold.
Installing hotwire manifold, injectors, fuel rail, plenum, high pressure fuel pump, cats, lambda sensors in both front pipes, wiring loom and ECU.
If you want to be exact there is a version of the ECU to match a 3.5 used in early Discoveries but that would probably not be required, a 3.9 ECU would suffice.
As above, you would be best off buying the whole issue in one lot, and anything more modern than hotwire will involve lots of jiggerypokery. Not recommended.
Look at the wiring diagrams on this site to see what components make up the system. Do not expect all wiring looms to follow the same colour coding, they don't but it's not a big problem.
About to start a similar process on my LR but wont bother with the cats.
jw
