Hi
I have three V8 Rover engines, two are from a 3.5 Range Rover (1979 and 80) and one an SD1 3.5 engine year unknown.
And I have a Range rover I wish to fit a rebuilt engine to, and wonder what the opinion of the forum members would be, as to which engine to rebuild and what minor modifications would be good for the rebuild. All the engines are standard as far as I am aware. One has an opus ignition the other two standard points type. Carbs S.U. and Strombergs.
I like the idea of maybe, more C.C. and maybe a cam to give a bit more torque mid range. The car will do some towing and distance driving.
Any ideas or comments welcome.
Which Engine to rebuild ?
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I am in the early stages of a rebuild (well the old one is in bits). I guess it depends on how much you want to spend. Take all three apart and use the one with the least wear. You may then be able to just hone the bores and put to rings on the pistons. New crank shaft bearing shells and a new cam. The lowest cost cam would be one from a 3.9. Or look at cam suppliers to see what is available with more torque at the bottom end.
Then sort the heads with new rockers and springs.
Paul.
Then sort the heads with new rockers and springs.
Paul.
Hi
generally as above, all I would add is that if you have a choice is to select the pistons that give you the highest CR you can get and use the tin head gasket (unless it takes you over about 10.5:1 CR) but aim to be over 9.5:1. if the SUs are in good condition use those in preference (unless you have EFI in which case use that. I would stage 1 the heads (open out the area immediatly behind the valves getting the valve seat inserts opened out about 1to 2mm in radius and have a 3 angle seat job done) then blend it into the bowl behind the valve) I had an R87 cam in my first RR and built to this spec, it was a fun engine and towed a 1.25 ton trailer very well.
If you have more money to spend then there are 4.3litre long throw crank kits for the 3.5 block which with the right cam will give you buckets of torque but then you will need stage 3 heads to make it work and you would be wise to have a rebore. As usual it is down to what your budget is and by you have spent on this lot you would be be spending less on one of the LSX chevy engines (as much discussed on this forum .
Best regards
Mike
generally as above, all I would add is that if you have a choice is to select the pistons that give you the highest CR you can get and use the tin head gasket (unless it takes you over about 10.5:1 CR) but aim to be over 9.5:1. if the SUs are in good condition use those in preference (unless you have EFI in which case use that. I would stage 1 the heads (open out the area immediatly behind the valves getting the valve seat inserts opened out about 1to 2mm in radius and have a 3 angle seat job done) then blend it into the bowl behind the valve) I had an R87 cam in my first RR and built to this spec, it was a fun engine and towed a 1.25 ton trailer very well.
If you have more money to spend then there are 4.3litre long throw crank kits for the 3.5 block which with the right cam will give you buckets of torque but then you will need stage 3 heads to make it work and you would be wise to have a rebore. As usual it is down to what your budget is and by you have spent on this lot you would be be spending less on one of the LSX chevy engines (as much discussed on this forum .
Best regards
Mike
poppet valves rule!
Which engine to rebuild
Hi
Paul thanks for that I will make a note of the 3.9 cam.
Thanks Chris front covers noted.
Hi Mike
like the idea of more CC, had not known of the 4.3 litre long throw crank kits any idea were to check.
I had a look around the site before posting and looks like I missed out on the 4.6 litre block crank and pistons.
Unless I can find very good bores on one of the engines I would push for a rebore me thinks. And the SD1 block would supply the heads, as the engien has the 9.35;1 ratio if I remember correctly.
Are there any improvements over the existing oil pump, only asking as it appears very basic for the work it had to do.Also are there any ways of having the cross bolting system incorporated to this engine.
Thanks again for the replies.
Paul thanks for that I will make a note of the 3.9 cam.
Thanks Chris front covers noted.
Hi Mike
like the idea of more CC, had not known of the 4.3 litre long throw crank kits any idea were to check.
I had a look around the site before posting and looks like I missed out on the 4.6 litre block crank and pistons.
Unless I can find very good bores on one of the engines I would push for a rebore me thinks. And the SD1 block would supply the heads, as the engien has the 9.35;1 ratio if I remember correctly.
Are there any improvements over the existing oil pump, only asking as it appears very basic for the work it had to do.Also are there any ways of having the cross bolting system incorporated to this engine.
Thanks again for the replies.
real steel currently do a 4999 kit based on a 3.9 engine, they used to do a 4.3 kit for the 3.5 block and a 4.8 based on the 3.9 they don't seem to give a price (suprise suprise).
I think others do cranks (from blanks) boosted LS1 for instance, and v8 developments.
Rods would be narrowed chevy and standard pistons or find some for a buick V6 (but 8 of them )
can't easily cross bolt the 3.5 block but a main cap brace is a simple thing for the rover as the block is full depth.
Oil system on the rover is adaquate in SD1 form, not good but adaquate for a low reving torque monster.
Mike
I think others do cranks (from blanks) boosted LS1 for instance, and v8 developments.
Rods would be narrowed chevy and standard pistons or find some for a buick V6 (but 8 of them )
can't easily cross bolt the 3.5 block but a main cap brace is a simple thing for the rover as the block is full depth.
Oil system on the rover is adaquate in SD1 form, not good but adaquate for a low reving torque monster.
Mike
poppet valves rule!