Anyone dealt with a FlowKooler water pump? (Rover V8)

mgbv8 · Post by **mgbv8** » Thu Nov 27, 2014 11:02 pm

v8250 wrote:
mgbv8 wrote:V8250 ! Do you have any idea of the flow capacity of the ally rad you are thinking of using? I've been toying with the idea of converting my MGB rad to an ally one. But they seem to look the same size. The copper cores and fins of a stock rad will conduct heat away much better than aluminium core tubes and fins. So if the rads are similar in design the stock radiator should be better than the ally one shouldnt it? Although the ally rad will be a lot lighter than a brass and copper rad I think ! As a conductor of heat, copper is about 60% more efficient than ally from memory? Perry
Hi Perry, I don't know the true flow rate of the core, the input/output hose connection diameters are the same. When looking for radiators the majority of suppliers simply offer same size/design as a std radiator which, as you quite rightly say, only really gives gains due to weight. The reason why I opted for the Mulfab unit was the sensible increase in size, both core and top & bottom headers [take a close look at the pic' above], this should provide good volume/cooling capacity. The radiator fits under a std bonnet and does not protrude too low below the chassis rails :. no risk of damage. Re' core material, like for like core thermal txfr is circa' 60% better with a copper core assuming they're the same core format. The Mulfab unit uses a danish manufacturer core [can't remember the name right now...], they're very well proven with good fin-to-tube contact area. Many MG V8 racers with high o/p John Eales engines use the Mulfab unit so my choice for this unit with the little 4.0 TVR engine will be fine. Not sure what else to say except I think the radiator is the best available for design/size/efficiency to cost.

Also, I have noted your good advice re' engine stabilizer bar and it makes some sense to install a secondary bar lower down to counteract driver side engine lift. From your experience, what's the engine vibration transfer levels like when a second bar is installed?

Rgds,
Andrew

Andrew!
The extra steady bar will not give you any noticeable vibration tranfer noise or feel if the engine is still on rubber mounts. If JE is happy with these rads for his circuit engines I'll be happy to use one

Pel

mgbv8 · Post by **mgbv8** » Thu Nov 27, 2014 11:11 pm

Welshie wrote:Thanks both, food for thought.

Perry, when you say the 'usual' front bracket do you mean one similar to the Clive Wheatley one that goes from the front cylinder head to chassis rail?

Thats exactly what I mean mate. However, my original Clive Wheatly bar had an ally rod to connect engine to the inner wing, not chassis rail. The one I bought connects the near side head to the inner wing just under the bonnet rain channel. The ally rod let go after a few runs on track as the threaded end on the head bracket snapped clean off. So i just swapped it for steel threaded rod to match the nuts on the old rod and its been fine ever since.

3xpendable · Post by **3xpendable** » Fri Nov 28, 2014 12:25 pm

Thanks

I'm going to fabricate my own.

v8250 · Post by **v8250** » Fri Nov 28, 2014 1:07 pm

Welshie wrote:Thanks I'm going to fabricate my own.

Welshie, could you post a pic' of this when done. I'm not certain if my car will need a second bar at the moment, a little concerned at Perry's experience with the Clive Wheatley bar but Perry's engine is putting out considerably more power and is snap hard acceleration...my little 250bhp unit is a baby by comparison...

mgbv8 · Post by **mgbv8** » Fri Nov 28, 2014 4:43 pm

v8250 wrote:
Welshie wrote:Thanks I'm going to fabricate my own.
Welshie, could you post a pic' of this when done. I'm not certain if my car will need a second bar at the moment, a little concerned at Perry's experience with the Clive Wheatley bar but Perry's engine is putting out considerably more power and is snap hard acceleration...my little 250bhp unit is a baby by comparison...

Exactly mate. The ally was not up to hitting it hard off the line with slicks fitted.

3xpendable · Post by **3xpendable** » Mon Dec 01, 2014 11:09 am

Will do, my engine is going to be about 200BHP but obviously the bar will be over engineered for the task so would suit your 250bhp application.

Will be next year now, but will definitely post pics.

v8250 · Post by **v8250** » Mon Dec 01, 2014 12:18 pm

Welshie wrote:Will be next year now, but will definitely post pics.

I love your optimism, took the MG off the road in November last year hoping to have car completed by now...revised finished date March 2015

Take a look here http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topi ... Conversion

This w/e spent installing Dynamat and trial installing of twin roll hoop + spreader plates...masses more to do...

3xpendable · Post by **3xpendable** » Tue Dec 02, 2014 10:28 am

Wow, I just browsed through your thread and loved it. Will definitely read in more detail later! I got some ideas too, like the fuel tank heat reflection. I had considered doing that but now I will for sure. I take it you are running twin pipes?

Mine is a messy build compared to yours, but it's being done on a budget. I looked high and low for an extension peice for the gearbox tunnel!!! I asked Heritage and they couldnt find it even though it's on their new shells! My father made one in the end.

I'm of the comclusion now that my car will be 'done when it's done' and I don't get much time to work on it, but it comes along in chunks. It will be 4 years next September that I started the work in earnest so it would be good to have it done by then. I decided against Dynamat as it's so damned expensive. I found a few alternatives I'm going to try.

Are you a member on MG Experience?

v8250 · Post by **v8250** » Tue Dec 02, 2014 10:55 am

3xpendable wrote:Wow, I just browsed through your thread and loved it. Will definitely read in more detail later! I got some ideas too, like the fuel tank heat reflection. I had considered doing that but now I will for sure. I take it you are running twin pipes?

Mine is a messy build compared to yours, but it's being done on a budget. I looked high and low for an extension peice for the gearbox tunnel!!! I asked Heritage and they couldnt find it even though it's on their new shells! My father made one in the end.

I'm of the comclusion now that my car will be 'done when it's done' and I don't get much time to work on it, but it comes along in chunks. It will be 4 years next September that I started the work in earnest so it would be good to have it done by then. I decided against Dynamat as it's so damned expensive. I found a few alternatives I'm going to try.

Are you a member on MG Experience?

Exhaust/tank - there's very little room for the exhaust tails to exit between a std shaped tank and the inner chassis rails so heat reflective material is a must. MGOC do a modified tank, though I don't think it's necessary. Or, some folk exit the exhausts below the valence which then sit too low for my liking.

Yes Dynamat is a bit pricey but it's superb when installed. I managed to get 30% off on ebay making the cost the same as lesser product; it's worth searching ebay and Amazon when buying everything as it's amazing the pennies that can be saved!

Don't really do the MGE thing as find the MG forums are a bit Mumsnet...including PH

Post some pics of your project as it's always good to see others hard work

3xpendable · Post by **3xpendable** » Tue Dec 02, 2014 3:57 pm

I'm lucky that my car had a fabricated S/S tank thats a bit squarer but narrower than the std tank too, but I will get reflective on the sides of it.

I usually scour eBay for stuff, just haven't gotten to the interior yet

Haha I find MG Exp pretty good, the standard MGB section can be a bit like that but the Engine swaps sections is very friendly

Ok will post pics when I can.

v8250 · Post by **v8250** » Tue Dec 02, 2014 5:41 pm

Hi Iwan, have just taken a look on the MGExp links. You must not do as these fellows have done.

This simply blocks all the air flow through the radiator...

This isn't using anywhere near the right fan sizes, the trick is to get the maximum fan/s size dia' to radiator...

3xpendable · Post by **3xpendable** » Tue Dec 02, 2014 9:08 pm

Pics aren't showing mate, which ones are you referring to?

v8250 · Post by **v8250** » Wed Dec 03, 2014 11:09 am

3xpendable wrote:Pics aren't showing mate, which ones are you referring to?

?? I can see them on the forum. They're the rad pics here http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?40,2816332

1. with large black mounting plate
2. with mis-sized rad fans

3xpendable · Post by **3xpendable** » Wed Dec 03, 2014 11:27 am

Ah makes sense now, sometimes it doesnt like forum to forum linking.

I didn't like that one with the restrictive mounting either, so don't worry I wasn't going for that one, and as I suspected the two mini fans wouldnt do much at all!

Incidentally, can you give me more details on the alternator setup on yours? It doesnt look like a Std V8 one.

v8250 · Post by **v8250** » Fri Dec 05, 2014 9:32 am

I've used the Powerlite RAC068 Alternator http://www.powerlite-units.com/products/rac068/

And the Powerlite RAC318 Starter http://www.powerlite-units.com/products/rac318/

You can buy direct or do a distributor search to save a few pennies. The main distributor is Powervamp, they have an ebay sales front end and often have twin pack deals...it's always worth calling them and asking if they could do a special price if bought together. I've saved a good amount doing this with most suppliers for the project. The RAC318 is well proven, lightweight and with greater cranking output than the standard starter units.