Uprating SD1 Rear End
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Uprating SD1 Rear End
Besides fitting a Quaiffe lsd what else can be done to beef up the SD1 rear axle? Are uprated driveshafts available? I know Holden Commodore/ BW and Nissan Pintara rear ends have been put into TR8s, but they don't have the torque tube set up that the Rover has. The SD1 axle casing seems fairly strong, but not sure how the internals measure up.
It’s not the world’s strongest. Certainly a Quaiffe is a great thing to have, both for traction and because the standard planetary gears will disintegrate if you abuse them.
Common tricks for the track were to heat up and bend the axle by just a fraction to give it some rear toe-in, and to brace it (though for the road one of the braces has to be removed to clear the fuel tank).
I came across an axle which had been tricked-up by V8 Developments when they were dismantling a customer’s project.
Drive shafts can and do go – I’ve snapped one running a 4.6. I’m very lucky to have, second-hand but hardly used, a one-off pair of custom made billet steel halfshafts. They cost quite a lot but I was happy to pay it as they cost the previous owner a fortune to be made.
I’ve heard of pinions going too – not much you can do about that other than make sure it’s perfectly shimmed and use top quality synthetic oil. You also need to ditch the standard CV-jointed prop for one with steel UJs – much stronger.
I understand there’s a Volvo live axle that makes a relatively easy transplant and is tougher than the Rover unit, but I’m not sure from which car – something like the old 240/260 I think.
Common tricks for the track were to heat up and bend the axle by just a fraction to give it some rear toe-in, and to brace it (though for the road one of the braces has to be removed to clear the fuel tank).
I came across an axle which had been tricked-up by V8 Developments when they were dismantling a customer’s project.
Drive shafts can and do go – I’ve snapped one running a 4.6. I’m very lucky to have, second-hand but hardly used, a one-off pair of custom made billet steel halfshafts. They cost quite a lot but I was happy to pay it as they cost the previous owner a fortune to be made.
I’ve heard of pinions going too – not much you can do about that other than make sure it’s perfectly shimmed and use top quality synthetic oil. You also need to ditch the standard CV-jointed prop for one with steel UJs – much stronger.
I understand there’s a Volvo live axle that makes a relatively easy transplant and is tougher than the Rover unit, but I’m not sure from which car – something like the old 240/260 I think.
No substitute for cubic inches
That what TVR did for years.v8man wrote: just drop a jaguar rear end and you have a very strong axle and goes around corners to
Current V8 car TVR 400SE 240 BHP
Current Project TVR Tasmin Race, with 3.9 running at 230 BHP
Currently building a 4.6 300 BHP Xbolted Engine for it. Solid Lifters and Group A rockers, Stange 4 heads, Pocketed piston, fully balanced.
Current Project TVR Tasmin Race, with 3.9 running at 230 BHP
Currently building a 4.6 300 BHP Xbolted Engine for it. Solid Lifters and Group A rockers, Stange 4 heads, Pocketed piston, fully balanced.
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Ever hear of snapped sd1 halfshafts.. I think that they are quite strong..5000SE wrote:It’s not the world’s strongest. Certainly a Quaiffe is a great thing to have, both for traction and because the standard planetary gears will disintegrate if you abuse them.
Common tricks for the track were to heat up and bend the axle by just a fraction to give it some rear toe-in, and to brace it (though for the road one of the braces has to be removed to clear the fuel tank).
I came across an axle which had been tricked-up by V8 Developments when they were dismantling a customer’s project.
Drive shafts can and do go – I’ve snapped one running a 4.6. I’m very lucky to have, second-hand but hardly used, a one-off pair of custom made billet steel halfshafts. They cost quite a lot but I was happy to pay it as they cost the previous owner a fortune to be made.
I’ve heard of pinions going too – not much you can do about that other than make sure it’s perfectly shimmed and use top quality synthetic oil. You also need to ditch the standard CV-jointed prop for one with steel UJs – much stronger.
I understand there’s a Volvo live axle that makes a relatively easy transplant and is tougher than the Rover unit, but I’m not sure from which car – something like the old 240/260 I think.
I broke my pinion ones, because my planetary wheels broke first..
Now i run quaife diff, and had nothink proplem with the halshafts..
Engine produce ~300hp/+470Nm.. And i run with 255 tyres and performance clutch..
Hope to run next summer with 370hp/600Nm..
Timo