The V8 Owners Forum -

That seems right Timo, after some research, the 24 spline diffs are in some VERY late 93 cars, and the 94 and 95 soft dash models.

Mine will definitely have the 10 spline diffs it appears.

:D thanks, she sounds quite good too. I've uploaded a short video I took. The exhaust is a very budget setup I did myself to get the V8 grunt out a bit while I worked on more important things like engine servicing and the rear arches, I think all in it cost me £60 to make it sound like it does now, ...

well done for making me think of that actually, it's terrible in low box, much worse, there's a LOT of slack. I can't believe I hadn't thought of that lol. So it definitely sounds like driveline / transmission then. Bugger. Ah well, sooner I work out what it is, sooner I can repair it.

Here she is :D http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x297/D4MJT/Range%20Rover/Range%20Rover%20Shots/Rangie3.jpg http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x297/D4MJT/Range%20Rover/Range%20Rover%20Shots/Rangie2.jpg http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x297/D4MJT/Range%20Rover/Range%20Rover%20Shots/Rangie1.jpg htt...

Hi Chris, Thanks for your response. I do hope it isn't the transfer box, I was around when my mate changed the auto box in his and it wasn't the most fun job about :lol: I'll check the rear bushes thoroughly, including the one at the top of the rear a-frame, I think this is what you're talking about...

I thought I'd ask here, I know it's a V8 forum, but I guess some of you might have used Range Rover axles or diffs and be able to help me. When I'm driving, say I have the car in 3rd gear (3.9 5 speed manual range rover), and I'm coasting, if I apply the throttle smoothly, I get a bit of a good clun...

Thanks for all your help with this. I now have a perfectly idling truck. I cleaned the stepper motor, and then set it up using an emmissions machine to get the fuelling right, adjusting the AFM as necessary. She runs better than ever now, thanks a lot for your input once again.

if I recall correctly, there is a seal on the compressor which breaks down meaning the compressor starts to run more and more to keep the pressure, and eventually the compressor will wear itself out. Check on Landy Forums, but I'm fairly sure thats what it sounds like.

ok, cheers for that, what's the easiest way to do this, is the stepper motor basically the same as an idle control valve. I had a 1988 Daimler that had an idle problem, I cleaned back the throttle body, and had to go through a few steps to wind the idle valve shut, then set the idle correctly, stepp...

Someone else has said that to me, but the Haynes manual for my car clearly describes a procedure for raising or lowering the idle speed. I'm going to attack it with a hammer and a screwdriver later on.

I think thats going to have to be the plan, I just wondered if there was a special knack to it that I'd somehow missed.

It's the typical Haynes manual lingo "unhook plug = spend hours losing knuckle skin and swearing blind at plug"

Hi there, to update from my previous thread, I no longer have a problem with my coolant temperature sensor, and I appear to have solved my overfuelling / poor running issue. I had some new brake lines fitted to the front of the car about 2 months ago, and now I think of it, it's been about since the...

yea, will do, just one of those things I guess. The thing that's suprised me is I'm 100% positive I was screwing it in dead straight, I'm not the most skilled mechanic in the world, but I'm not daft either, I can tell when something cross threaded, and it's definitely not, it's sitting flat even now...

worst case possible scenario has happened, I was as careful as dammit, and I'm still 100% positive it didn't go in cross threaded, but the thread has stripped in the inlet manifold for the CTS. It's almost completely in, possibly just under 1mm to go, and it just turns, I can't get it any further in...

ah that's great, thanks a lot for your help