The V8 Owners Forum -

just be careful if you are using one of these kits on a road car. They were originally desgned by drag racers running open exhausts (and do work!) If you fit one to a road car you may have problems. The backpressure in the system caused by the mufflers can cause the exhaust gases to feed into the en...

Awesome guys, thanks, thats what I was looking for

Conrad

To give an idea of what I mean by cramped, here is the engine bay:



And a current dyno reading of the RWHP and torque:



Conrad

granted, but they are diesels, and need the turbo. I have owned plenty of turbo cars, and don't get me wrong, I love them. But I do not want the added work of fabricating manifolds, exhaust, intercooler plumbing etc. I certainly do not have the time for all of that, it is a tow vehicle that is not u...

Boosted LS1 wrote:A tame cam and a single turbo will give you significant gains in torque.

its going into a van, lets not be silly!

Hi all, I am in the process of rebuilding a 4.6 GEMS engine, which will be fitted into my (don't laugh!) 1995 LDV 400 van, which I use to tow my race car. The aim is to produce a high torque engine, with reasonable fuel economy (current low comp 3.5 on SU carbs is quite thirsty) It will retain the R...

kiwicar wrote: I had dealings with them some time ago and quite frankly I could not have found a more helpfull and professional, and friendly company to deal with very nice people!
Best regards
Mike

Same from me, great people to deal with, and very helpful:)

I manufacture wet sump pans for the E30 M3, these are basically an evolution of the original DTM sump pan. I use the rubber flappers (available from BMW or Cosworth) instead of the metal "trap doors" as they are more reliable IMO. Basically you want to build a sealed box around the pickup,about 1 li...

I have the black one at the moment, but thanks anyway. Just drove the van for about 200kms today, first trip since changing the diff ratio. Speedo reads perfect, but odometer is about 5% under reading. I think I will just live with that. I seem to remember something Chris posted about the auto one, ...

HOLEE, thats quite a collection!
Slightly OT, but would you know if the ZF4HP22 trans used the same speedo drive as the 5 speed?
I just bought a BRAND NEW auto trans for the princely sum of $90 (thats £45!) but it is missing the drive.

Actually I take back what I said, I have just double checked, and you are correct! The LT77S driven gear I have is a 21 tooth with straight cut teeth. the gear in my R5-150 is a 23 tooth black, with helical cut gears (and bigger diameter) I need a 22 tooth gear, presumably for an LT77. Anyone know w...

thats interesting, I bought a green one for a Landy LT77S and it is the same shape as the one in my R5-150 box, which was essentially the last "evolution" of the LT77 2WD box.

then your new stroke is the 4.6 stroke plus half the differance in journal diamiter less about .02" so you can machine down to a clean surface all around. new stroke will be the (whole) difference in journal diameter, not half. You get half the difference in diameter in the throw of the crank, but ...

a guy I know here in NZ races a Rover P6 (really! ) and he runs a 3.9 engine on quad sidedraft Webers on the swan neck manifold. Makes 290rwhp on a Dyno Dynamics rolling road, which equates to around 350 flywheel hp. Goes really well for a big old tank

Someone will correct me if I am wrong, but I would have though a post 94 3.9 block non x-bolt block would be the way to go? Drill the bosses through for x-bolts, then go from there. The P38 factory x-bolt blocks (4.0 and 4.6) both have larger mains so finding a 72mm crank to suit might be an issue. ...