The V8 Owners Forum -

hello all,

found myself yesterday doing some winter lay-up work, while i had some time.

Sump has been leaking for a while, so i removed it.

This is the thrid time i've found alot of hylomar sealant stuck to the pickup pipe when i removed it......this concerns me, although i didnt notice any drop in oil pressure.

So i dont want to keep using this blue hylomar, although the sd1 manual says coat both sides before fitting.

reading the range rover manual, it says just seal the gaps between the timing cover, nothing else......

So does the sump gasket need sealant or not, what would happen if i didnt use any????

thanks for the advice.

scott

What sump are you using?

My tin sumps on the...

Std Rover SD1 is a cork gasket, you are suppose to bond it to the sump (I've used evostik) you need some sealant at the rear near the rear main cruxiform gaskets.

My late RR Classic is just sealant, I used a loctite grade but can't remember which.

Is your sump square?

I know this is obvious and you have probably checked it already. . . But is the mating face of the sump pan flat? Just they are a thin piece of tinwear, and when they leak they get over tightened in an attempt to get them to seal, net result bent mating face and the thing never seals again no matter how much sealent is used. Check it with marking out blue and a sheet of fine wet and dry on a sheet of glass, or engineers blue and a sheet of glass.
If it is flat and torqued to the right compression then it should not need any sealent.
Best regards
Mike

Hi Scott.

I note you are running a 4.6 which I assume is crossbolted.

If you are, then 2 bolts each side of the sump will tend to leak unless you put sealer on the threads. This is due to the fact that these bolts line up with the crossbolt drillings and oil tends to seep down these bolts. Some people use a copper washer under the head of these bolts but I found a sealer more effective.

Cheers
Denis

DEVONMAN wrote:Hi Scott.

I note you are running a 4.6 which I assume is crossbolted.

If you are, then 2 bolts each side of the sump will tend to leak unless you put sealer on the threads. This is due to the fact that these bolts line up with the crossbolt drillings and oil tends to seep down these bolts. Some people use a copper washer under the head of these bolts but I found a sealer more effective.

Cheers
Denis

I always put studs in them & seal the studs. Hylosil seems to work best of all the sealants I've tried. I think there are more occurences of warped pans than untrue block faces, I would never use the sump to steady the engine anymore and am always careful to support on the flange if necessary.

thanks for all the help.

Yes i have a 4.6 but with an intermediate front end with a baffled sump.

I know the sump is not totally flat, due to all the extra welding its had, i have tried to flatten it at work, but it just wont move and is just rock solid.

I have tried the RTV method with not much luck as this lasted a week then leaked although i dont think the seal was the best as its akward to assemble from underneath the car, laid on my back....lol.

Think maybe an overtighten of the bolts was my last attempts failure of the gasket, as looks like the back corner of the gasket split.

Thanks for the info on sealing the sump bolts near cross bolts, i will definatly do this.

cheers

scott

The best sump sealer I've used is Right Stuff. I only use it on odd joints here and there. But when a mate was in trouble with his skanky RV8 and needed it back together on a Sunday I cleaned up both faces and used a bead of this stuff with no gasket. That was 2 years ago on his 3500 and its still not leaking from the sump flange.

Hylomar is no good because it never quite sets. I use stahdard 'Sovereign' high temperature silicone sealant in very small quantities. Best method I have come up with is;
Make sure mating surfaces are spotless and wipe over with brake cleaner to remove any oil. Now put a really light smear all the way around a new cork gasket. Now put the gasket on the block. Use the bolts to secure it in place .. very light pressure. Now go and make a cup of tea! Leave it for about an hour at this time of year. Now go back and remove the bolts. Another really light smear of sealant on the cork. Now lift the sump and get all the bolts in but only a thread or two .. let the sump hang. If you want to seal the cross bolt leakers mentioned earlier in the thread then do that now .. personally I don't bother but I can see the theory working. Then go for the corners first .. but not too tight .. if the gasket squeezes out of the side it is all over .. so go lightly .. then just nip them all down. then run around the whole pattern and just 'nip' them again. Leave everything to set and all should be okay.

shaunod wrote:Hylomar is no good because it never quite sets. I use stahdard 'Sovereign' high temperature silicone sealant in very small quantities. Best method I have come up with is;
Make sure mating surfaces are spotless and wipe over with brake cleaner to remove any oil. Now put a really light smear all the way around a new cork gasket. Now put the gasket on the block. Use the bolts to secure it in place .. very light pressure. Now go and make a cup of tea! Leave it for about an hour at this time of year. Now go back and remove the bolts. Another really light smear of sealant on the cork. Now lift the sump and get all the bolts in but only a thread or two .. let the sump hang. If you want to seal the cross bolt leakers mentioned earlier in the thread then do that now .. personally I don't bother but I can see the theory working. Then go for the corners first .. but not too tight .. if the gasket squeezes out of the side it is all over .. so go lightly .. then just nip them all down. then run around the whole pattern and just 'nip' them again. Leave everything to set and all should be okay.

if you evostick the gasket to the sump, the gasket will NEVER blow out the sides unless the crank up the bolts to silly torque

shaunod wrote:Hylomar is no good because it never quite sets. I use stahdard 'Sovereign' high temperature silicone sealant in very small quantities. Best method I have come up with is;
Make sure mating surfaces are spotless and wipe over with brake cleaner to remove any oil. Now put a really light smear all the way around a new cork gasket. Now put the gasket on the block. Use the bolts to secure it in place .. very light pressure. Now go and make a cup of tea! Leave it for about an hour at this time of year. Now go back and remove the bolts. Another really light smear of sealant on the cork. Now lift the sump and get all the bolts in but only a thread or two .. let the sump hang. If you want to seal the cross bolt leakers mentioned earlier in the thread then do that now .. personally I don't bother but I can see the theory working. Then go for the corners first .. but not too tight .. if the gasket squeezes out of the side it is all over .. so go lightly .. then just nip them all down. then run around the whole pattern and just 'nip' them again. Leave everything to set and all should be okay.

What a palaver for such a simple job have always used this stuff on cork and paper gaskets http://www.cromwell.co.uk/HRM7202291M i agree silicone sealer's have there uses but not on cork & especially sump gaskets/joints

Evostick gasket to sump, then bolt it up evenly, corners first, everything snug and then nip up tight, have a tool we use like a mini speed brace, limits the torque we can apply to just about right, unless a gorilla comes in and fits the sump lol! Ours comes off a lot more than most and leakage is not a problem, every now and then may have to sit it on a steel block and use a body hammer to get the face flat, but only every few years. We can have the sump off 4-5 times a year.

Alan