DIY head porting
Posted: Fri Nov 18, 2011 12:43 am
I'm going to start porting my cylinder heads whilst I am waiting for things to happen with my bottom end - balancing etc: my block is currently at the shop being bored.
It's a 3.9, and the pistons I am using are flat tops. I'm going to use early heads with 36cc chambers and composite gaskets to skim the heads afterwards to aim for 10.5:1 compression. I am aiming for (I think reasonable) 240/250bhp. I have not decided on a camshaft yet, but I won't be going beyond 7'000 RPM, and it's going into my road-going MGB so I don't want it to be completely undriveable, but as it won't see much traffic I can put up with a peaky feel. It might even see some track-day use.
I understand that Rover heads see a lot of benefit from opening up the throats and blending into the short side, which is fairly straightforward. I'm fairly confident about cc matching the chambers too (I have a burette).
I have a few questions:
I have read that the inlets need to be finished with a slightly coarse finish, and the inlets a polished finish. Is this correct?
I'm not certain about opening up the ports at the manifold because making them too big will have a detrimental effect on flow. If I open them out to the gasket, will this be too much? I may have an attempt at making a flow bench as per one of David Vizard's articles, and stop grinding when I stop seeing improvements at my desired valve lift? I have a set of heads to practice on.
I have also had a look for any pictures there may be showing where to grind, similar to ones my old man used for his TR6, but I can't find any. I have seen the posts on here with the sliced up cylinder head which are helpful in as much as I can see when to stop grinding. I wouldn't know what to do around the short side and the valve guide apart from polishing.
Also, the issue of valves and valve shrouding problem with Rover heads. I would go to the 1.63/1.4 inch valves, but I wonder if retaining the standard size valves would yield a better improvement for my desired output by keeping the valve unshrouded, away from the cylinder wall. I am using 95mm pistons, so larger than standard.
Any input and advice at all would be helpful.
Edit: Also, who supplies those valve guides with the step in them at the correct installed height to stop the guide dropping through? Thanks.
It's a 3.9, and the pistons I am using are flat tops. I'm going to use early heads with 36cc chambers and composite gaskets to skim the heads afterwards to aim for 10.5:1 compression. I am aiming for (I think reasonable) 240/250bhp. I have not decided on a camshaft yet, but I won't be going beyond 7'000 RPM, and it's going into my road-going MGB so I don't want it to be completely undriveable, but as it won't see much traffic I can put up with a peaky feel. It might even see some track-day use.
I understand that Rover heads see a lot of benefit from opening up the throats and blending into the short side, which is fairly straightforward. I'm fairly confident about cc matching the chambers too (I have a burette).
I have a few questions:
I have read that the inlets need to be finished with a slightly coarse finish, and the inlets a polished finish. Is this correct?
I'm not certain about opening up the ports at the manifold because making them too big will have a detrimental effect on flow. If I open them out to the gasket, will this be too much? I may have an attempt at making a flow bench as per one of David Vizard's articles, and stop grinding when I stop seeing improvements at my desired valve lift? I have a set of heads to practice on.
I have also had a look for any pictures there may be showing where to grind, similar to ones my old man used for his TR6, but I can't find any. I have seen the posts on here with the sliced up cylinder head which are helpful in as much as I can see when to stop grinding. I wouldn't know what to do around the short side and the valve guide apart from polishing.
Also, the issue of valves and valve shrouding problem with Rover heads. I would go to the 1.63/1.4 inch valves, but I wonder if retaining the standard size valves would yield a better improvement for my desired output by keeping the valve unshrouded, away from the cylinder wall. I am using 95mm pistons, so larger than standard.
Any input and advice at all would be helpful.
Edit: Also, who supplies those valve guides with the step in them at the correct installed height to stop the guide dropping through? Thanks.