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Starter motor stalls when turning over (Rover 3.5, carbs)
Posted: Sat Jun 25, 2011 10:28 am
by Quagmire
New problem has appeared over the last week or two- intermittently happens.
25% of the time when starting up from cold or after having sat there for a few hours it will churn over then the stop dead as if the engine is locked. If I release the key you here the starter unload, and then if I try again it will fire up right away as normal.
My Dad had similar when he had head gasket failure on pot 1 and water was making its way into the cylinder when the system was up to pressure and engine off....
I have checked all four "corner" plugs- i.e, 1,2,7 + 8, but no signs of water. Dad had a slightly rusted plug (i don't), so any suggestions on what to check next?
The only thing I can think of now is to take the plugs out and turn it over and see if any water shoots out?
Other than that it change the starter? Does the collective have any other ideas on what it could be?
Cheers

Posted: Sat Jun 25, 2011 1:22 pm
by marcjagman
I'm more inclinded to think along the starter route. Could just be crap on the terminals or loose terminals on the ends of the wires. I'd check them first before paying for a new starter.
Posted: Sat Jun 25, 2011 2:57 pm
by kiwicar
Hi
I would check all the electrical connections, especially the earth strap to the starter/engine. I would think the most likley problem is that the starter is tyred.
best regards
Mike
Posted: Sat Jun 25, 2011 4:34 pm
by scotb
timing too far advanced?
Posted: Sun Jun 26, 2011 8:43 am
by Quagmire
Thanks guys, will check the earth connections out next. I do have a couple of spare starters so its not the end of the world if its dead.
With regard to timing, its running Megasquirt so although I did tweak the timing a little a month or so ago when it was installed, nothing has changed before this problem started.
Having said that it has been running on a little bit sometimes too recently. I wonder if my trigger wheel may have moved or something? That would be unlikely, but not impossible I guess...
Posted: Mon Jun 27, 2011 8:42 am
by conrod
Normally timing problems (too much advance) show up worse when engine is hot. Is the engine using water? Have you checked with a timing light what the advance is when cranking? The quickest/easiest way to check if it is a timing problem is to disconnect ignition coil(s) and crank over. If the problem disappears completely then it is timing related. If problem persists then keep looking!:)
Posted: Mon Jun 27, 2011 10:15 am
by Quagmire
Small update- checked and cleaned earth strap. Did a start (stalled on starter) ran for a few mins then turned off, started again 2 mins later and same happened again.
Can't be water then, as I am not using any and if was able to fill a cylinder that quick I would be using gallons. Also the hoses are not hard when up to temp.
Next stop is to check timing with a light.

Posted: Mon Jun 27, 2011 10:18 am
by DaveEFI
The hoses should be hard when up to temp as the system is pressurized. If it is leaking, they go soft.
Posted: Mon Jun 27, 2011 10:50 am
by sidecar
My money's on a duff starter or solenoid!
Posted: Mon Jun 27, 2011 11:16 am
by Quagmire
Ok, let me clarify- the hoses are harder, but not rock solid so I am pretty confident I don't have HGF...
Starter did come off an old P6 engine so its pretty long in the tooth now!

Posted: Mon Jun 27, 2011 12:21 pm
by ChrisJC
So, name = Quagmire. Is it a 4WD? Do you run the engine buried in mud? Is the bellhousing completely sealed? Is the starter motor full of mud?
Chris.
Posted: Mon Jun 27, 2011 2:07 pm
by Quagmire
Chris- It is in a Land-rover 90, but it does have the half moon cover thing on the bellhousing with a bit of instant gasket to seal it.
Rather dissapointingly it does spend most of its life on the motorway.
As its my daily drive and I dont want to kill it, when I do go "offroad" its usually a gentle bit of greenlaning rather than any crazy, mud up to the bonnet type stuff...
Posted: Mon Jun 27, 2011 8:08 pm
by conrod
If you replace the starter use a late model one like P38 or Disco, they are reduction drive; more torque & less current draw.