The V8 Owners Forum -

Hi All,

Due to some real luck, I am the new owner of a fully and comprehensively stripped 5.2 John Eales Motor, its the triple plenum one with arrow rods, massively ported heads, and a JE 218 cam, and omega pistons

This was in a matserrati Buggy, and inhaled loads of dust and the liners have a deep ridge, so a re linering is required.

So, from the experts here, please name those engineering places that will do a fabby job of 8 x new liners ? Yes I could go to John E but he possibly sub contracts out, so I can get this done too

2nd I have for some reason in my Brain that you should NOT NOT NOT fit ARP Studs to a cross bolted block, can someone refresh my grey cell as to if I am right and why ?

Its completely stripped, so looking forward are NGK BP6RES the plugs to use ?

The heads seem to have had strech bolts in them, I am again thinking ARPs - thoughts ?

Any other help re suggestions on the rebuilding of this will be good to hear, however daft, as I am well known for being daft now and then and missing the F obvious

Should make my LR 90 sit up and go, it has a JE 4.5 in at the mo, so looking forward to ruining me underpants

Nigel B wrote:
I have for some reason in my Brain that you should NOT NOT NOT fit ARP Studs to a cross bolted block, can someone refresh my grey cell as to if I am right and why ?


The heads seem to have had strech bolts in them, I am again thinking ARPs - thoughts ?

In answer to the two statements above I think that there is just no need for ARP studs in the mains due to the fact that the mains won't fret the block due to the X bolts. Also the higher clamping force that can be used with studs can mess up the bearing clearance. (This will depend on what you torque them up to).

As for ARP studs in the heads, I use them on my 4.6 lump and I thing that they are the biz! The second best thing would be SD1 bolts, last by a long way would be stretch bolts. Just buy the ARP head studs, all the other stuff looks well weedy when you've seen them!

Pete

Yep, ARP head studs all the way, but don't torque the nuts to the figures in the paperwork - they are for cast-iron blocks and there is a danger of tearing the stud out of a rover block. I torque the head nuts to 65-70lbft and have no issues. This is still a higher loading than the original bolts at the same 65lbft due to the nut having a finer thread.
As has already been said, no need for ARP studs on the mains, and avoid stretch head bolts like the plague!

Chesman Motorsport do relinering for a number of the 'household name' RV8 specialists.
http://www.chesmanengineering.co.uk/
Chris.

ChrisJC wrote:Chesman Motorsport do relinering for a number of the 'household name' RV8 specialists.
http://www.chesmanengineering.co.uk/
Chris.

Andy Chesman does JE's work like this. Andy is John subby
You dont need ARP on the bottom of your 4.6 as mentioned. But ARP head studs are a must if you want to push it a little. Or a lot in my case. I think you may find that V8 Devs can do a new set of liners for a good price compared to Andy though ??
How deep is this ridge?? Could you get away with a rebore and new pistons?? Time to do some measuring maybe

The cam may be fairly mild. But what is the intended use for the motor?
If you rebuild using a cloyes timing chain setup you can advance or retard the cam timing to move the torque up or down the rev range. I'm just experimenting with that now on my drag car.
Was this motor built to be a screamer? It sounds like it may have been.

You have a good platform for a super build with that engine. Do your homework now and built it right and you will have one mutha of a powerhouse in that car

Perry

Hi,

normally your 5.2 block uses already T-liner for 96mm bore conversion.
So you can't fit new liners.

Thanks for near giving me a Heart Attack instat panick I'd be looking at a new block....so a call to JED has revealed he doesn't use Top Hat Liners as he puts it "Its a bit of a bodge to cure a bodge" he only bought new blocks from LR and somehow his are all the better ones, which he thens works and bores and liners. The liners are worn to to being a rear engined racer sucking in race dust kicked up and badly maintained filters, so JE has confirmed he himself can reliner fopr around £650 with a line check so just needs vblock and caps

Thank God

I thoyught he would be more than that - and am highly tempted just to send it up to him, the other advice so far in here is proing superb, ARP Head stud kit defo, and timing bits I have yet to find in the tea chest (s) of bits

But keep the help coming, most grateful

Nige

I know Mr Eales has all the experience but I'm suprised he calls top hat liners a bodge- in my mind they are the only liner solution in any aluminium block to make it truly bullet proof!

topcatproduction wrote:I know Mr Eales has all the experience but I'm suprised he calls top hat liners a bodge- in my mind they are the only liner solution in any aluminium block to make it truly bullet proof!

Mine is not top hat linered. But I also think the top hat is a great way to ensure a good seal when you take things to the limit.

John can be a bit of an old grump as he is set in his ways. But he's got great experience. He has always done me proud when I turn up on his doorstep and tell him I need help NOW!

I think he gives me a bit of special treatment because he thinks I'm a bit loony doing what I do with a stock Rover V8

So £650 + vat I assume to fit stock liners to a V8 block and align as well. That sounds pretty good eh?? Does he give any guarantee on this job??

It's about £800 for a set of top hats though.

John says Ordinary liners should be fine whilst I know he i a guru I am drawn towards top hat liners, which he says he can do, are more expensive but hasn't got any at the moment.

Also been pointed towards Shaun at V8 Developmwents, who seems to have an up and growing good reputation ?

Thoughts ?

Nige

Nigel B wrote:John says Ordinary liners should be fine whilst I know he i a guru I am drawn towards top hat liners, which he says he can do, are more expensive but hasn't got any at the moment.

Also been pointed towards Shaun at V8 Developmwents, who seems to have an up and growing good reputation ?

Thoughts ?

Nige

V8 Dev have been around for ages, they have a good reputation in the V8 world. I bet they ship the work out though! (Possibly to that bloke that was mentioned in an earlier post)

V8 Dev also use Chesman.

You will probably get a better price from V8 dev though as Chesman do protect their customers by not undercutting them!

Chris.

Personally I would go with John Eales, he is prepared to stand by his motor as you say, and he has the expertise to put it right back to where it was when it left him the first time. I also tend to agree with the bodge comment. Fitting top hats removes the water leak seal issue but doesn't resolve the cracking behind the liner that caused the problem in the first place. If there are no cracks the parallel liners are just fine. I would also run the studs even on the cross bolt bottom end, if he is going to check and correct the line anyway then just tell him you intend to use studs and he will prepare it accordingly.

Alan

Me, I'd go straight to V8D or Chesman engineering. They'll get it done in no time and I think they'll offer a better service. JE pissed my mate about for ages.