The V8 Owners Forum -

Hi

I am putting a sd1 sump on a late 4.6 rv8 .
I have used a cork gaskit but am a little unhappy with the finish as it seems to of got a little bit squashed and is stick out a little too much for my liking.
When i installed in a used some gasket sealant on block to control the slip of the gasket, it still looks a little crap though.
My question is , is it better to use the non cork gaskit on the sump, its thinner than the cork but i imagine it wont slip as much.
Any suggestions, i would rather get this right now whilst the engione is out of the car.

Cheers

Chris

Hi Chris
Had exactly the same problem on my 4.3and gave up in the end with the gaskets.
What I used was a tube of RTV and lightly greased my work bench(keep with me here because it works).I then cut some small 3mm packers and rtv'd them to the face before pumping RTV all around the mating face of the sump and turned it upside down and sat it on the greased area of the bench.I then smoothed off the excess sealant with a body filler spreader and let the whole lot cure for a couple of days.Once cured I cut the sump off the bench with a length of .6 mig wire (it came off easily because of the pre greasing) and hey presto a permanent rubber sump gasket which can be used over and over and not a spot of oil anywhere and because of the 3mm packers this gives you a good amount to compress when bolting up.
You will need to trim the inside of the sump because of the excess oozing of the RTV but this is done easily with a stanley blade.
It works perfectly

mmm, not a lover of RTV anywhere on an engine, I managed to wipe out a very expensive all steel X Flow, all down to a small bit of rtv getting into the pump rotors and stopping the pump, breaking the pump drive belt, total wipeout, crank block and NEW head, all scrap,
My soloution to gaskets moving about when you clamp them down.
1st, make sure the sump rail is flat, clean all the bolt holes out so they are clean and dry, next glue the gasket to the sump with evostick, ones there you really have to abuse the gasket to make it move when you bolt it up, you need a light smear of blue hylomar on the gasket to block, and torque the sump to factory spec with a small dab of loctite threadloc on the bolts, if you follow the system, IT WONT LEAK and neither will the gasket squeze out

Ian I agree with you on RTV being able to cause problems.
This was the whole point of triming back the sealant on the inside of the sump once it was fully cured.
I have,nt tried evostick for sump gaskets but would be concerned about the heat breaking down the joint and thus leaking again.
However,we all have our own ways of doing things and our posts should give Chris some help.
Cheers
Paul

I thought with cork gaskets you weren't supposed to use sealant at all. Just clean dry surfaces, and non-overtightened bolts, and it will be fine. The sealant lubricates the gasket and allows it to move......

Chris.

thx
the thing is i have a composite "heavy duty" gasket spare though it is much thinner than the cork, do you recommend using this or getting another cork gasket and trying again.

Cheers

you will never get the thin rubber gasket to seal on a pressed sump, they are too flexible. The rubber gasket is meant for the cast alloy sump on the later engines which is much more rigid

Hello Chris (bullyboy),

I have the pressed steel sump from my P6B fitted to my 4.6 and no gasket was used. I believe that Hylosil type 101 or 106 was used.

After two years and just over 20,000 miles no leaks at all.

Ron.

Land Rover used a red coloured RTV sealant instead of gaskets on the Discoveries. I found when I pulled this down that the sump oil pick up strainer had large blobs of sealant trapped on the outside of it between the gauze and the outer lip of the pick up.

Is there a paper gasket available? Or are the options cork, rubber, RTV?

Hello Rob,

There are fibre/paper sump gaskets available. They are dark grey in colour and are quite rigid,..not floppy in the same style as cork ones.

T.R Spares here in Sydney have them.

Ron.

Thanks Ron. These type may be the ones I end up using along with some gasket cement or hylomar to keep them in place.

Rob