The V8 Owners Forum -

trying to remove the capped bolts from rear of crank.any tips.
they in solid tried impact gun .heat and wd40.started driing heads of now.
but its bloody hard work. they are hardened screws dont like being drilled out. regards pete.
bolts are ones that hold the auto gearbox flywheel spacer

They can be a complete ar&e.

In my experience, once I'd drilled the heads off the ones that wouldn't come out, and removed the adaptor ring (it was an auto), the threaded studs that were left came out very easily with the molegrips.

Chris.

i used the same method as we use to remove forklift forks from our rotators, long reach allen key and 6 foot of scafolding pipe ! ok so not such a long pipe for the smaller ones you have, i found locking the flexplate really hard but was fortunate it was a scrap engine and just shoved a large piece of box section into the crank area it worked, they always come off with a "crack" ! whats to lose? shear the head off and it saves drilling them out ! john

What bolts you on about?

most of them now shagged so i got to drill the mothers out.

what a pain in arse

Had that before as well, once the heads were of them the thread came out with my fingers.

I had this recently on an engine I was doing for a mate. They all rounded off. I ended up welding new bolt heads onto the old ones so I had a new thread sticking out. I put two nuts on and locked then together. They came out quite easily as I reckon the rapid heat and cool of the stick welder loosened them.

I had the same issue yesterday with a mates Rover caliper bolts. This time I used the oxy propane welder to get the heads bright red. Then left them to cool for a minute. They just came off with a spanner then.

all drilled out wih 6mm drill. justneed to get a bigger drill now with carbide tip . normal ones not touching the bolts

managed to drill out bolt heads. then used a puller to get plate off.
all the threads then just unsrcewed by hand.

was getting worried there .all ok now