The V8 Owners Forum -

Guys,

I'm after some advice on what might be at fault.

My engine has done around 180,000 K’s; oil changed ever 5,000 k’s, light brown tarnish looking through the rocker cover.

The last few oil changes I’ve started to notice the ticking sound coming from in or around piston 7, i change the oil / filter it calms down until the oil turns dark of which time I’ve covered nearly 5,000 K’s, the oil I’ve used over the last few changes has been a 20/50 mineral.

This time I filled it with Castrol Magnatec 10/40 to see if it will stop the tapping, but it seems to be coming back earlier.

I’ve replaced the manifolds / exhaust as part of an upgrade I had already planned, new gaskets made sure they were the right way around etc.

It never ticks while its cold thou, takes around 3 – 6 mins to start the noise after start up, by no means is it LOUD, just a slight noise.

My local garage told me to use an additive, something called resolve, none too keen on chucking additives in the engine, so I never did it.

I also have a huge amount of carbon build up inside the exhaust, when you wipe the inside it falls off, even blows out soot at start-up, when you floor it the cloud of clag that comes out the back is visible more at night in car headlights.

It’s not burning oil, oil level never changes throughout the 5,000k service changes.

Water level doesn’t change really over 5,000k’s uses a minimal amount.

I suspect it’s the cam, so would change it out for a Piper RP4, with a decent timing chain.

But I’ve had mixed responses on what cam to use, I’ve been told to stick to the OEM one, as it was designed for the engine etc.

Any ideas,

Thx

Jim

If you do change the cam, make sure the cam is specced for EFi, as some cams confuse the engine management system.

Go for a torquey cam if it's in a 4x4.

The noise could be piston slap? I don't know how you tell though!

Chris.

The standard 3.9 EFi cam is as good as the RP4 and is a lot cheaper

The most likely culprit would be camshaft and / or lifters.

Piston slap would normally occur when cold, being most audible when the engine is first started. Given that your engine does not display these symptoms, I would be inclined to go with the former.

Ron.

To me it sounds a problem I had with my engine a while ago,if you still have the original alloy rockers, the steel inserts that are crimped in become loose and that is where the tap comes from,you cant actually see the problem once you have the rocker out,to test you have to use compressed air,but landrover did do a recall notice for the problem.Easier to bung one in just to try before stripping the engine too!

Thanks for the replies.

I’ve had the Disco from new, so it’s got a full dealer history, to my knowledge it’s never had the rockers off.

It’s still a good idea on replacing the valve gear before I strip the whole engine down.

With regard to the cams, I’ve added no extras only sport manifolds & exhaust, the standard cam is a lot cheaper than a RP4, so I won’t really see the benefit, or will I?

If new valve gear doesn’t solve the issue, I think I will go down the standard route with all OEM cam / lifters / push rods, the only difference is I will go with a branded J&P Duplex Timing Gear, is this a good idea?
I’ve seen a lot of write up’s on setting the Tappet pre-load, Land Rover Rave info / Haynes manual doesn’t mention this at all.

This may sound a stupid question, but is this something that has to be done on all stock parts or just performance parts.

I think you will notice a good difference- your lobes on your cam after 112,000miles will probably be round! They can often be worn out after 50k...

Hello Jimbob,

It is my understanding that provided all OEM parts are used,..ie camshaft, lifters, rocker assemblies, then the lifter preload will fall within the acceptable range. As such, no adjustments are required.

If non OEM parts are used, especially the camshft which may have greater lift, then the valve gear may require shimming in order to accomodate the preload as specified.

Ron.

Hi I don't wish to be a kill joy but a rover V8 at 180 K could really do with a full rebuild, the bores may be Ok but it really needs new bearings, certainly in the next 20K to 40K. Even if you do the cam, camchain and tappets, the valve springs and guides could do with renewing and the seats re-doing the rocker shaft will be worn and even with regular oil changes the crud is building up in the oil ways. I just think by you have renewed that lot you may aswell have the engine out, strip it, clean the oilways, maybe a hone and new rings on the old pistons and check the bearings and new shells, or a skim on the crank, new oil pump and do the valve train then you will have a new engine.
Mike

Thanks again guys!

Best I get looking into buying all OEM parts from a good online reseller in the UK.

I see your point re: the rebuild, I know it’s just around the corner, but I think I will wait until I hit the 200,000 k’s mark, it’s something I’ve been trying to put off!

Then hopefully I can take it off the road for an extended period, and get it done right.

Jimbob,

With an engine at that mileage, even with a good service history it is bound to have some wear and I as others have suggested would agree that the valve train is probably due for replacement.

The rocker gear is easily removed to check for wear and relacement and refit is relatively simple.

The cam, lifters and timing gear are almost certain to be near the end of their life.

Before you start spending money though it would be sensible to do compression checks on all cylinders and if you have an oil pressure gauge fitted, what is the pressure like at tickover and say 3000 RPM

Kevin.

jimbob wrote:Thanks for the replies.

I’ve had the Disco from new, so it’s got a full dealer history, to my knowledge it’s never had the rockers off.

It’s still a good idea on replacing the valve gear before I strip the whole engine down.

With regard to the cams, I’ve added no extras only sport manifolds & exhaust, the standard cam is a lot cheaper than a RP4, so I won’t really see the benefit, or will I?

If new valve gear doesn’t solve the issue, I think I will go down the standard route with all OEM cam / lifters / push rods, the only difference is I will go with a branded J&P Duplex Timing Gear, is this a good idea?
I’ve seen a lot of write up’s on setting the Tappet pre-load, Land Rover Rave info / Haynes manual doesn’t mention this at all.

This may sound a stupid question, but is this something that has to be done on all stock parts or just performance parts.

Yes my D2 had a full LR service history,It started tapping after about half hour of driving on tick over,I also changed cam tappets etc,but still tapped RPI said cracked block but a freind of mine who is a LR mech told me about the rockers and guess what!

CastleMGBV8 wrote:Jimbob,

With an engine at that mileage, even with a good service history it is bound to have some wear and I as others have suggested would agree that the valve train is probably due for replacement.

The rocker gear is easily removed to check for wear and relacement and refit is relatively simple.

The cam, lifters and timing gear are almost certain to be near the end of their life.

Before you start spending money though it would be sensible to do compression checks on all cylinders and if you have an oil pressure gauge fitted, what is the pressure like at tickover and say 3000 RPM

Kevin.

Hiya,

Thank you for the note; I will give it a bash at the weekend.

I know you are all right, the engine has done 112,000 mile and never let me down once.

With regard to the valve train you mean exhaust / inlet valves / sleeves / rocker shaft / springs. If so the stage 1 / recon heads at http://www.v8developments.co.uk/ don’t look a bad buy.

As I’m just getting my parts list together decided to use all OEM spares, not a hope in hells chance of using my local stealer for the bits.

Cheers,
Jim