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Lucas Dizzy (DLM8?)- testing operation (out of car)
Posted: Thu Sep 11, 2008 6:46 am
by Quagmire
Guys,
I have a Lucas distributor with the two wire module on the side that i picked up cheap to use on the 3.5 i am rebuilding.
As the engine is in bits right now is there anyway i can test the dizzy on the bench to ensure it actually works before i get to the big startup and find its dead?
Thanks
Jamie
Posted: Thu Sep 11, 2008 7:33 am
by ChrisJC
The easiest way is to hook it up to a coil and battery and spin it with a drill to see if you get sparks.
Chris.
Posted: Thu Sep 11, 2008 8:31 am
by Eliot
would expect a spark out of it just flicking it round with your finger.
Posted: Fri Sep 12, 2008 9:55 am
by sidecar
The 2 DLM8 dizzies that I've worked on have both had the same problem in that the bob weight springs were slack and therefore knackered.
I know its a bit of a pain and looks tricky (which it isn't) but if I was you I'd dismantle the unit and check that the springs are OK. You can get a kit from RS, it has several spings. Use the two silver ones to get full advance at 3K RPM. When you end up fitting the unit go for 12-14 static and 36 total advance. The standard Rover figure of 6 static will loose you a load of torque and BHP!
Pete
Posted: Fri Sep 12, 2008 2:09 pm
by Quagmire
Thanks Pete!
Will hook it up to a coil and see if i get a spark first, assuming that's ok I will checkout the springs and see what condition they are in.
I should also say i picked up some 10bolt heads for the rebuild too- much nicer than the SD1 jobs i had to work with before, better seals larger ports

Posted: Fri Sep 12, 2008 2:47 pm
by sidecar
Quagmire wrote:Thanks Pete!
Will hook it up to a coil and see if i get a spark first, assuming that's ok I will checkout the springs and see what condition they are in.
I should also say i picked up some 10bolt heads for the rebuild too- much nicer than the SD1 jobs i had to work with before, better seals larger ports

Good one!
You should still whip out the valves and grind out the massive step that Rover have deemed fit to leave just behind the valve seats. Just think of it, a ported and race tuned V8, what a street sleeper you'll have.
I think that teh 10 bolt heads will be the 28cc chambers, that will work out well with the comp gaskets. You still might want a head skim as you are running LPG, it depends on the pistons you end up using. The ones in your block are 9.35 I think.
If you want a hand ripping the dizzy apart let me know, mine is in pieces at at least once a month!
Anyway it sounds like you are enjoying putting this V8 together, it should be a nice motor for your Landy when its finished.
Pete
Posted: Fri Sep 12, 2008 3:17 pm
by topcatcustom
sidecar wrote:The 2 DLM8 dizzies that I've worked on have both had the same problem in that the bob weight springs were slack and therefore knackered.
I know its a bit of a pain and looks tricky (which it isn't) but if I was you I'd dismantle the unit and check that the springs are OK. You can get a kit from RS, it has several spings. Use the two silver ones to get full advance at 3K RPM. When you end up fitting the unit go for 12-14 static and 36 total advance. The standard Rover figure of 6 static will loose you a load of torque and BHP!
Pete
As in RS components? - if so arent there loads in the kits?
Posted: Fri Sep 12, 2008 4:05 pm
by ChrisJC
As in Real Steel.
Chris.
Posted: Sun Sep 14, 2008 8:48 am
by deetes
On the subject of these dizzies. Can anyone enlighten me on the correct way to wire them. Pulled the wires off and forgot to mark them. Picture would be nice, as I can't see any marks on the module.
The wire that sends a signal to the ECU, if my ECU doesn't need that, do I need to earth this connection or what?