The V8 Owners Forum -

Im lookin to replace most of my hoses, does anyone know if I can get a complete kit for a rover, or do i have to get each hose seperate. also this begs the question on bore size of hoses where do a measure, old hose inside or part it fits too?

thanks in advance

James

Dont know about a kit for the rover. I certainly have had to get all mine separate. Samco are good, but they are very expensive. Roose motorsport do fair prices i believe. I got most of mine over a month or so on ebay and they're good quality from what i can tell, and not much different to the samcos i already had, if at all. Cost me about half what the equivalent samcos would have done, and i've got LOT of hoses lol!

cheers,

did you measure the parts that the hose goes on to to get bore size needed?

James

I always measured using the Internal Diameter of whatever I was connecting to. Bit of a tight fit on one or two of the water hoses, but better that than loose!

what do people use to join the hoses together??

and whats the best way to get water from the back to the radiator in the front?

sorry about the thread hijack but its kinda on topic.

i would have thought you would want a hose which its internal diamitor is slightly smaller than the thing its goign over, not including the ridges it goes over.


Ralph

Jubilee clips are the best to use i find, plus they're cheap as chips and nice and shiney.

To get the water from the front to the back, use a long piece of pipe?! seriously, check out how GT40s do it etc. you could probably run some metal piping under the car.

And no, that's not how I'd measure the hoses. The hose should be the same internal diameter as the pipe etc. that it is connecting to. Bear in mind that the hose is flexible and is designed to slip over the pipe and ridges. Any smaller and it will be a very tight fit; i know i've tried, thats why i ended up buying a complete new set of hoses.

For example, my intercooler is 2.5" Internal diameter on the connections, but the pipe itself is about 1.5-2mm thickness, which is 4mm additional to the diameter. Not tight, but not loose, and a jubilee keeps it all together nicely.

Ralph

32mm tube should do for your pipes front to back on the car
If you're lucky you can run them through the tunnel now your engine is in the boot!

Suggest you drill 3 or 4 holes around the end of the pipe and then fit pop rivets throught the holes Then squeeze your rubber hoses over the whole lot Tighten with a jubilee clip (some say 2 is better on the long runs pipes) - the jubilee clip will not be able to slip off over the pop rivets - saves having to get the ends of the pipes swaged.

Another thing to do is to tighten the Jubilee clips with a socket instead of screwdriver to get them tighter - tetighten after it has been up to temp a couple of times

Also if you run the pipes under the car you get additional cooling from the pipe - run it inside the car and make sure you lag it well.

Check your thermostat and drill a few 1/4 inch holes around the circumference to aid in getting water flow to the rad

Sorry for thread hijack

Ian

32mm, only thing is the engine output is 45mm and the RR rad has 40mm pipe ends.

tho i hope to use rad of an mgf or maybe rover 200 which should be big enough but isnt massive like the range rover.

inch and half stainless pipe is easy to get but the only slight worry is the weight of it, but plastic pipe wouldnt conduct the heat so well.

there will defiantly be room for it to run down the tunnel as i wont have an exhaust there anymore. and if i get small pipe for the heater matrix then i could heat wrap that to keep it warm.


Ralph

40mm Will work but will add a load of weight due to the volume of water.

Look at the thermostat and the size hole therein, that is the biggest restriction in the rad circuit so anything over 1 inch will work.

I'd not worry about the heater - there will be enough heat coming out your engine to keep you warm! (Unless you need it for SVA (BASTARDS))
If you need the heater T out of the main rad pipes at the front end on either side of the rad - you will get circulation.
Seehttp://www.nfauto.co.uk/download/cataloguejuly2005.pdf
Page 67 for the stuff I mean - also do reducers for your pipe

Then loop your standard flow and return to the standard heater to each other with a restrictor to about 2mm. I used copper 15mm plumbing bits straight pipe 90degree bend, short straight 90 degree bend and straight then an end blank drilled with a 2mm hole. This is mounted with 2 shorp pieces of rubber hose.

Likewise the tunnel will get hot! Suggest you line the tunnel with heat fabric / reflector before fitting the pipes in there.


Ian

good point about the weight of water, that does make 32mm sound about right, will see what i can source else it will be either 1 inch or 1.5 inch OD pipe.

the tunnel shouldnt get any hotter than it did with an exhaust there and i have carpet over it anyway and it didnt cause an problems.

i want a heater as its a road car, the engine has dedicated heat outputs on it, surely its best to use these rather than the rad pipes as i would think the heater ones will work if the stat is open or closed?

im hopign to keep the heat out of the pasenger compartment by makign up some panels to cover it, probly shiny 1.5mm stainless stuck to 6-9mm mdf then black carpet over the top, should keep sound and heat toa minimum and look bit more suttle.


Ralph

I agree re better to use the existing stuff.

Your heater matrix should have a heat / no heat lever which will operate a simple tap affair - so unless that has gone out with the existing engine you should still be able to turn off the heat.

Dependant on space in the tunnel - yes you could run the heater pipes through there but really space will probably be tight with 2 water pipes and then 2 heater pipes, then wiring to get engine connected to main loom, then handbrake - it all starts to pile up!

Daily driver for a rear engined V8. I like your style but these things generate loads of heat - don't underestimate it! Also now the engine is in the rear there is no natural air flow around the block so it will bake through to the cockpit.

How far down country are you? - I'll take you for a ride in the 40 to give you some hear treatment!

Cheers
Ian

Ian Anderson wrote:I agree re better to use the existing stuff.

Your heater matrix should have a heat / no heat lever which will operate a simple tap affair - so unless that has gone out with the existing engine you should still be able to turn off the heat.

Dependant on space in the tunnel - yes you could run the heater pipes through there but really space will probably be tight with 2 water pipes and then 2 heater pipes, then wiring to get engine connected to main loom, then handbrake - it all starts to pile up!

Daily driver for a rear engined V8. I like your style but these things generate loads of heat - don't underestimate it! Also now the engine is in the rear there is no natural air flow around the block so it will bake through to the cockpit.

How far down country are you? - I'll take you for a ride in the 40 to give you some hear treatment!

Cheers
Ian

im in cornwall so miles away and dont seem to leave cornwall very often. would love to take you up on it tho!

i have a small fan 300mm or so in diamitor which they use to blow air threw the engine bay of an mgf, lotus elises get pretty hot but they just have 1 thin ali layer which isnt going to stop anything.

my thinkign is heat wrap exhaust and water pipes which are in the engine bay to get as much heat away as possable, fit a ventalation system possably comprising of this 300mm fan, and fit a reflective insulating layer between the cockpit and the engine bay.

i think its a fantastic idea, V8 mid engines daily driver, shoudl still be fairly practical and very fast! shouldnt be bad on fuel as will only be around 900 kg an wont need any more than 1/8th throttle to go anywhere!

the mrs doesn't seem to agree tho, "stupid idea" and "waste of money" spring to mind


Ralph