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Removing a RV8 crankshaft pulley?

Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 11:34 am
by Rick-Manta
This had been giving me some right grief for ages now. Basically, I have been trying to undo the crankshaft pulley bolt on my nearly stripped down 3.5 engine which is just proving impossible.

Following some advise I've had already: I've got someone to stand on the block which is laying upside down (to stop the whole block tipping over), I've jammed a wooden hammer handle in one of the crankshaft counter weights against the side of the block (to stop the crank itself turning over) and I'm using a long crack bar with all my weight trying to undo the bastard thing to no avail!

Any other ideas please, I'm really stuck?

Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 12:36 pm
by Pocket rocket
I take that the problem is the bolt won't budge as opposed to being unable to jam the crank effectively.

Have you tried an impact air gun.

Heat on the bolt

longer extension (scaffold pole) on your breaker bar


GOOD LUCK -I thought it was only me that got stuck on things like this :D

Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 12:38 pm
by v8alex
There's no doubt many techniques to free stubborn bolts....

Have you tried any thread penetrant / releasing agent? I would stand the block edge on and fill the cavity in the crank pulley with PlusGas and leave it overnight then have another go.

Alternatively, take the whole lot to a friendly garage with an air impact driver

Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 1:13 pm
by ChrisJC
Have you got a vehicle you can bolt the engine block into to hold it?

Longer breaker bar & 3/4 drive socket set.

Also make sure you wedge the crankshaft at no's 1 & 2 to reduce the risk of bending it.

Chris.

Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 1:44 pm
by winkle
Rick,
I would definately spray some release oil (WD40 or similar) on it. use hammer and an old extension bar or steel bar and tap the end of the crankshaft bolt. Then give it some stick with an impact air gun, works for me! :D

All the best
Steve

Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 2:37 pm
by sidecar
I knocked up a handle that I could bolt onto the damper using the pulley bolt holes. I used to old square section steel mig welded up. (Old school table legs!). The handle was a couple of feet long and can be made to hit something to stop the damper turning. (Like the floor or chassis).

Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 5:25 pm
by katanaman
Impact gun has always worked for me.

Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 5:48 pm
by jrv8
Hi,

Take the block to your nearest tyre depot and get them to use the wheel gun on it.
It'll come off with that for sure.
Sometimes they're a right sod to shift, but will always let go with the air impact tools.
Jim

Posted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 9:09 pm
by Rick-Manta
Thanks for the replies. I don't have a impact gun and buying an air compressor is something for the future but not the nearby :)

I've soaked the thing in plusgas and WD40 but the trouble is I think with the 160 ft lb torque setting. Once I've changed the cam and timing gears, got the cover back on etc, it'll be pretty hard to torque back up by hand.

I could ask the tyre centres, lifting the engine into my boot may be difficult mind!

Thanks again, I'll keep trying.

Posted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 10:12 pm
by sidecar
Rick-Manta wrote:Thanks for the replies. I don't have a impact gun and buying an air compressor is something for the future but not the nearby :)

I've soaked the thing in plusgas and WD40 but the trouble is I think with the 160 ft lb torque setting. Once I've changed the cam and timing gears, got the cover back on etc, it'll be pretty hard to torque back up by hand.

I could ask the tyre centres, lifting the engine into my boot may be difficult mind!

Thanks again, I'll keep trying.
A good torque wrench will allow you to torque it up but you will have to lean on it pretty hard! (That's why I made a holder for my damper)