The V8 Owners Forum -

Hi Everyone,

I have a major problem.

My Range Rover engine has just had some warranty work completed, received the short engine back and has now been fully fitted.

Fired her up yesterday and could hear a faint tapping from the bottom end, removed sump to find the 4 conrods of the LH bank have been installed incorrectly

Removed a big end cap on No 7 and had a play to see if it could be turned round, but couldn't due to the counterbalance weight.

Having slept upon it, if I remove the conrod bolts and maybe remove the rockers (to close the Valves)

- Is it possible to turn the conrods/pistons, with out removing the cylinder head (AGAIN!)

I think I already know the answer

The machine shop is in for a Whole load of S*** tomorrow, I'm also annoyed with myself for not noticing


Engine is a 3.9 non crossbolt Serpentine.

Any comments good or bad please

Who was the machine shop?

A local one to me, will name and shame if necessary, will be looking for recompence!!!

The RV8 is an interferance engine, right?
Could you turn the engine untill the valves are shut on cylinder 1 and the piston is up at TDC, remove timing gear and crank and then turn the piston 90 degrees? Crank and timing gear back on and turn the engine round till piston 3 is at tdc with both valves shut and then so on for 5 and 7?

If you need the piston any higher both valves are shut so there is no risk of damage?

I don't know the answer, i'm a novice and i'm having a guess!


Hope you can sort it.

JC. wrote:The RV8 is an interferance engine, right?
Could you turn the engine untill the valves are shut on cylinder 1 and the piston is up at TDC, remove timing gear and crank and then turn the piston 90 degrees? Crank and timing gear back on and turn the engine round till piston 3 is at tdc with both valves shut and then so on for 5 and 7?

If you need the piston any higher both valves are shut so there is no risk of damage?

I don't know the answer, i'm a novice and i'm having a guess!


Hope you can sort it.

I understand what you're saying, slackening the rover shafts off will close all the valves, plugs are removed so I'm not fighting compression thus no valve/pistion issues

It is really if there is enough clearance with the conrod bolts removed and rotation of the crank to avoid the journal and the crank counter weights.

but thanks

I think you need to strip the engine to find out if the pistons are handed and facing in the right direction.

Worst case I can think of at the moment is that you've got four bent rods because of the side load, plus the pistons on those rods are now distorted because of being bent over in the bores and the rings will have started to wear irregularly. Also the opposing bores will not have received the proper splash lubrication from the oilers in the bigend joints.

It must be really annoying that someone who should know what they are doing has made mistakes doing a task you could do yourself and been paid for it.

Dave

Damage could have occurred here and you need to check and see if there is. The best solution would be to get the engineers to sort it out because if you get in there and something is damaged they have every excuse to tell you where to go and blame you. I know its annoying and holds you back but IMHO its the best way to go.
I don't think you will have enough room to spin the pistons anyway but I have never tried it. I think you might find removing the rod bolts in place a bit tough too as they are an interference fit.
What was the warranty work just out of interest?

I hope not!!

I don't think is is quite that bad, although it is bad enough, the RH bank of pistons are in correctly and showing equal clearance both sides @ 3mm

The LH bank has the conrod fast against one side of the piston (rear) e.g. pistion is offset to the centreline of the pistion

The big end bearing is offset to the conrod centreline.

engine turned over without resistance so I think the side loading is minimal.

Fingers crossed

I suppose it comes down to how much room you have. Can you get the crank to a position where you can push the rod off, and then try to roate it somehow.
If I were trying this I would have the head off to see if I could push the piston right out to check for scuffing in the bore.
How the hell can they fit the pistons wrong. The rods are flippin marked??

But as it may be down to the builders I would let them do the whole rectification job.

You must be spitting feathers mate. I know I would be...

I have become intimate with my Range Rover engine over the last 18 months.

As some of you may know I rebuilt the engine fully in @ June 06 (1st time out), in Sept 07 a liner went porous, top hat liner fitted (2nd time out) (I fully stripped the engine, sent block for work and rebuilt it)
In Aug 07 she blew a head gasket whilst towing my caravan to Dorset, came home 330 miles on a AA transporter!
Upon removing the offending head fount No 4 liner had dropped 5 thou (was 2 thou proud originally)
Removed other head and found No5 dropped and gasket begining to fail + No 7 dropped
Stripped to a short engine and delivered it to be redone under warranty, no problem, no issues. (engine stripped, liners removed, decked and refitted) + heads skimmed as one was damaged.

Taken twice as long as I anticipated (known for being steady, the finished machining work I've seen is superb)_

Received short engine back and refitted it.

Cost to my self @£200 on gasket and 6 days work, 48hrs+

Car has been off the road 14weeks and this should be my everyday car But wanted the job right, not rushed (they originally just wanted to deck it again)

Waiting to see what's said tomorrow,

I don't think "You must be spitting feathers" quite covers it

I am a reasonable person, patient mistakes can happen but I think this is the last straw!!!

katanaman wrote:

Damage could have occurred here and you need to check and see if there is. The best solution would be to get the engineers to sort it out because if you get in there and something is damaged they have every excuse to tell you where to go and blame you. I know its annoying and holds you back but IMHO its the best way to go.
I don't think you will have enough room to spin the pistons anyway but I have never tried it. I think you might find removing the rod bolts in place a bit tough too as they are an interference fit.
What was the warranty work just out of interest?

Hi Marki,
I think you are right, they need to sort it, and it needs to be sorted ASAP, can't wait another 14 weeks, and to add insult to injury I re-taxed her Saturday

I am also pretty sure the piston can't be urned with out removing the head, again new composite gasket, stretch bolts and valley gasket @ £60 (£115 for a full set of LR)

I have actually changed con rod bolts in situ, as someone streched a few(torque wrench cal out) naming no names

I will be looking for financial reimbursement as well

After a polite and frank discussion, voicing my anger and disappointment

The machine shop has agreed to take the Range Rover in, strip and inspect the piston/conrods and rebuild, within an acceptable time frame.

Trailer out tonight then

Watch this space

Good luck mate. Hope is all well for Xmas.

That sucks, i wud be spewin too. Give them a week 2 fix it, maybe more if they have to send anything away 4 machine work.

Udapte,
Delivered RR last Tuesday evening, should be available to pick up Thursday

Fingers crossed (Iwant to use her on a trip this Saturday)