The V8 Owners Forum -

Guys, can you take a look at the vids please & let me have some advice please???

It's a rover 3.5 by the way.....

This vid is of the first time the engine cicked in to life with a horrible knock:


Then I changed the oil for fresh stuff & put a flush in with it to get rid of the crap as it has been stood for 7 years that I know of!! Runs a little quieter but still knocking a little (but it comes & goes!!)


& then there is this problem..... oile weeping out of the dipstick tube where it goes in to the block, but it's dribbling straight on to the exhaust manifold how can I stop this???


Finaly when I was looking & feeling around the engine bay I noticed that the passenger side bank was hot to touch where as the drivers sid bank was warm!! Any sujestions why this could be??

I know it is over fueling something cronik.... think this is down to a shafted AFM!!

Any help greatfully recieved!!

Cheers
Jono

As far as the dipstick tube - I "glued" mine in with a bit of araldite. Seems Ok at the moment . Otherwise I was thinking of using "plastic metal".

You might want to tighten up the clip holding your dipstick tube to the rocker cover - stop it flapping about

Not sure about the other stuff - the knocking could be cam followers but the only way to tell is to replace them. I assume you have checked/cleaned/replaced spark plugs and ensured they are all working.

dunno if you know this but rover v8's do not self prime the oil pump, if it has been unused for a long while then the oil may not be getting circulated correctly. what grade did you use as it should be 20w50. my truck made very similar noises and this was due to the knackered gearbox. try with the clutch pushed down to see if the noise changes at all

Jono , some responses in Red

Jono FD3 wrote:
when I was looking & feeling around the engine bay I noticed that the passenger side bank was hot to touch where as the drivers sid bank was warm!! Any sujestions why this could be??

Could be trying to run on just 4 pots in which case you have a broken ECU, faulty resistor pack or a wiring/connector problem.

I know it is over fueling something cronik.... think this is down to a shafted AFM!!

If your ECU is broken and permanantly over fueling one bank of pots then this observation is erroneous, but its more likely to be a temp sensor problem or the wiring to it, than the AFM.

Any help greatfully recieved!!

Search thro' the SD1 download archives on my website for test programs and individual Efi component descriptions.

ramon alban wrote:Jono , some responses in Red

Jono FD3 wrote:
when I was looking & feeling around the engine bay I noticed that the passenger side bank was hot to touch where as the drivers sid bank was warm!! Any sujestions why this could be??

Could be trying to run on just 4 pots in which case you have a broken ECU, faulty resistor pack or a wiring/connector problem.

I know it is over fueling something cronik.... think this is down to a shafted AFM!!

If your ECU is broken and permanantly over fueling one bank of pots then this observation is erroneous, but its more likely to be a temp sensor problem or the wiring to it, than the AFM.

Any help greatfully recieved!!

Search thro' the SD1 download archives on my website for test programs and individual Efi component descriptions.

Funny you should say that about a sensor, when I picked it up there was a plug undone on the right hand bank that went under the water temp sensor thingy.... wireing goes in to the fuel rail loom!!! might try unpluging this again & give it another try!!!

Jono

Jono FD3 wrote: & then there is this problem..... oile weeping out of the dipstick tube where it goes in to the block, but it's dribbling straight on to the exhaust manifold how can I stop this???

Jono, Just noticed the symptom you described above. For oil to be forced up the dipstick tube hole there has to be excessive crankcase pressure which means your crankcase ventilation system may be blocked.

"The crankcase ventilation system is an integral part of the air supply system to the engine, but it is often overlooked when diagnosing problems. An air leak or a blocked pipe in the ventilation system will noticeably affect engine performance. Air is drawn out of the crankcase by depression felt at the pipe connected to the plenum chamber in the butterfly housing. This pipe connects to the front of the right rocker cover via an oil separator which is fitted to ensure that lubricating oil is not drawn into the engine inlet. As the impure air is being drawn out to be burnt in the combustion chambers, it is replaced by fresh air drawn in through the filter located on the rear of the left rocker cover."

The above quote is from the Rover SD1 Efi operations manual.

I suggest you clean the breather system, part of which is covered on page 7 of the PDF available here:

http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pag ... num01.html

Jono FD3 wrote:when I picked it up there was a plug undone on the right hand bank that went under the water temp sensor thingy.... wireing goes in to the fuel rail loom!!! might try unpluging this again & give it another try!!!

OK! you got me! I dont know what that could be. What are the colors of the wires going to the unconnected plug and what component it connected to.

This is te topic I posted to find the home for the loose plug (with pics!):

http://www.v-8.org.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... highlight=

Cheers
Jono

OK Jono, We already corresponded on that way back in April.
sorry I forgot.
Unless you want to test the extra air valve again to be sure its working, leave it connected, its needed for correct operation.
Ramon

All i can hear is heavy clonking - like the bottom end is shot.