Clutch Slip - Helix

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ChrisJC
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Clutch Slip - Helix

Post by ChrisJC »

Evening All,
I have just got my Landie back into a driveable state after nearly 4 years in the workshop!!!

It's got a 4.6 'Thor' engine, with an R380 transmission. For minimum length, it's got a 4 cylinder 'Stumpy' bellhousing, with an old 4-cyl to V8 adaptor ring.
https://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.u ... -r380.html

Inside, there is a standard Disco 2 flywheel, but with a Helix clutch on there:
Plate = 70-3380/WB
Cover = 60-2499
Release Bearing = 40-2430

Now it all fits together well, and appears to work OK.

But it slips under high engine load!

I have checked that the slave cylinder is releasing fully, and it is as far as I can tell (I removed it, measured the distance between the fork and the mounting face for the cylinder, and made sure that the rod from the cylinder is slightly shorter (about 5mm).

Any comments?, how can I check that the release fork is fully off the diaphragm without cutting a hole in the bellhousing?
Would I expect slip until I've burned it a bit? Anyone else got that clutch?

Thanks,

Chris.


--
Series IIA 4.6 V8
R/R P38 4.6 V8

stevieturbo
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Re: Clutch Slip - Helix

Post by stevieturbo »

drill a small hole for a bore scope type camera.

And if the parts supplied were wrong...ie say a disc too thin for the cover, it would slip very easily.

AP used to get that wrong on a lot of their kits for some bizarre reason on a lot of cars.
9.85 @ 144.75mph
202mph standing mile
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XgWRCDtiTQ0

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ChrisJC
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Re: Clutch Slip - Helix

Post by ChrisJC »

I did indeed drill a hole in the bellhousing. Problem obvious!

The release bearing is being pushed by the front face of the gearbox, so it can't release any more!

I guess my combination of a Stumpy 4-cyl bellhousing + adaptor is just a fraction too short.

I will remove the gearbox and do a bit of 'fettling'...

Chris.
--
Series IIA 4.6 V8
R/R P38 4.6 V8

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