The V8 Owners Forum -

any one who can help me with noisy tappets issue in Yorkshire area please - update - its not the rockers or the hydraulic tappets as ive changed them

guys need your expertise help please if you can- got a v8 engine in disco, started and drove like a dream, until i replaced the carbs with new twin webbers. After replacing them it run fine until it conked out and stopped, after which i couldn't get it started, so i attempted to put it 1st gear and kept cranking it in gear so it may start, but it didn't start and by doing that i flooded the carb and the petrol was all over the inlet manifold. Got it recovered to a garage and found that all the oil was contaminated with petrol, so gave it an oil and filter change, then started it up and it was knocking, we thought that knocking was due to hydraulic tappets being knackered, which we changed along with new rocker shafts and push rods. fired it up and still knocking, engine runs fine but its got a knock- could it be camshaft or BE bearings? ive taken the sump off and checked the BE - photos attached of one of them - could these be the culprits? or what damage could it have done by cranking it - please any help would be appreciated

Having petrol in the oil isn't going to help it's lubrication properties.
When you say you've checked them have you taken them all off and had a look?
I can't see your attachment.

Chris.

It sounds to me like your carbs have diluted the oil through flooding and your repeated cranking may have killed off a big end or a main bearing.

Firstly
What oil did they use for the refill. 20w50 is required, good old Dynosaur juice for the old engine.

If it is modern lightweight stuff it will fail to pump up the liftersproperly/fully and not properly lubricate with Rover tolerances.

A tappet sound on these engines is regularly a leak at the exhaust manifold gasket.

Ian

right guys update- removed the sump and checked main bearings and big ends, they are goosed!!! got a new issue now - forgot to mark the caps on the conrod!!! how do i go about putting the right caps in the correct order!!! help please

Using a magnifying glass, you may be able to match the machined surfaces at the joint between cap and rod. Just like they do on the telly when they match bullets to a gun.

Then its time to check your crank rrealy carefully before you put new bearings in. Otherwise they could be thrown out within 100 miles again.

this bloody thing is going from bad to worse!!! i need cylinder head bolts now as 1 has snapped and the others dont look too good- whres best place to get set of 24 as cant find any one selling the set!

Aminv8 wrote:this bloody thing is going from bad to worse!!! i need cylinder head bolts now as 1 has snapped and the others dont look too good- whres best place to get set of 24 as cant find any one selling the set!

Rimmers will probably have the bolts...

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/?gclid=Cj0K ... Anbc8P8HAQ

I would avoid cheap crap off ebay.

You could go for ARP studs if you wanted, they are better than bolts for several reasons.

WTF...Quintuple post!

WTF...Quintuple post!

WTF...Quintuple post!

sidecar wrote:WTF...Quintuple post!

nope no longer available - found someone else who says they have been discontinued and the only thing thats available now is a modification, ie long threaded studs and nuts to go with the studs !

whats difference between 3.9 head bolt which come in a qty of 20, as opposed to qty 24 for the 3.5 - if they are the same i can buy 2 sets of the 3.9 ones- any one know please