The V8 Owners Forum -

Question1:
So,I had a look on-line. Sounds simple....remove drain plug, then refill to the top of the other plug half way up the gear box.......Only, my gear box does not have a filler plug!....Im sure it's an easy one, but do I just pour approx. 2.8 ltrs into the breather hole at the top of the box?.

With regards to the transfer box at the rear of the gear box.....this also has a drain plug...does this need to be refilled separately? ...How much and where from.

Im not going mad either...here are the pics to show there is no fill plug:

the plug in the first photo is the drain plug for the whole gearbox....

the plug in the last photo is the filler plug for the whole gearbox....

the first part and the second part aren't separate, the oil flows around both.

So with your car on level ground, make sure drain plug is in.

remove filler plug....get yourself a squeezable bottle and a piece of pipe attached to the lid with a hole in it.

Put the end of the pipe in the gearbox filler plug and squeeze till the oil comes out, fill it till it overflows the filler plug, replace filler plug.

job done.

but which oil to use is another story...think I had Castrol SMX in mine for years.

hope this helps

regards

scott

Thanks Scott.....and all makes sense now.

While I have you a few other things that I can't quite get my head around.

The gearbox mounting, on your car, how close was the starter motor casting in the bell housing to the bulk head?. At the moment, when I trial fit the gearbox, the weird reverse location gubbins on the back of the shift extender fouls the chassis...If I move it out, it's too far away from the prop (which is not a big problem as I can get a spacer).

And finally, for 10 points, do you happen to know if there is a gasket for the manifold to trumpet stack. I can find loads for the later generation inlet, but none for the GEMS.....Phew...that will do for now.

No gasket on the Lucas set-up. I use a lick of Hylomar. But that shouldn't really be needed.

DaveEFI wrote:No gasket on the Lucas set-up. I use a lick of Hylomar. But that shouldn't really be needed.

And that explains why no-one sells them

I've always used a good quality RTV on the faces between the trumpets and manifold, I have the heat spacer so have to coat both sides to get a seal, but never had a leak using that.

It is hard to remove at times, but does come off after a while or trying.

I would say the back of the bell housing where the starter goes to the bulkhead was a 10-15mm gap.....its tight but needs to be well back to get everything in.

the reversing baulk plate on the gearbox remote, should clear the chassis, when the gearbox is installed all the way back, I used a cut down standard SDI gearbox mounting & rubbers.

Although you should be able to move the back of the gearbox slightly sideways for it to clear the chassis, make sure you have the engine mounts assembled on the correct sides, so the engine is in the right place first.

It is tight in there, but should all fit, then the prop shaft should take up the rest, as long as its not too much.

And don't forget to put the bellhousing bolts in first before you bolt it up, as some of them wont go in, due to being to close to the bulkhead.

regards

scott

jenko wrote:With regards to the transfer box at the rear of the gear box.....this also has a drain plug...does this need to be refilled separately? ...How much and where from.

What do you mean by transfer box?
If you mean the aluminium bit on the end of your gearbox, then it's part of the 'box and houses reverse and 5th gear.
If you have a 4x4 then you have a separate oil system using totally different spec oil.
If your pictures are your actual gearbox, then you are not 4X4 and what Seight-V8 posted is good for your question.

As for which oil.... good luck on that one. I have been told to use anything from EP90 to ATF when I still had mine fitted...