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Stepper Motor Supplier
Posted: Sun Mar 15, 2015 5:20 pm
by v8250
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DI ... 27e6c894b3
Gents, I'm needing to buy a new stepper motor - prices are all over the place! For the same manufacturer component the above ranges from £12 to £80 [well known TVR specialist]. Has anyone used one of these, and/or, recommend a good replacement part where my wallet won't be abused?
Thanks,
Andrew
PS just seen this and they look identical...
http://www.racetechdirect.co.uk/e0121-t ... v8-tvr.asp
PS2 the ebay unit even comes with a 2 year warranty!
Posted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 11:42 pm
by seight
Got a cheapo one in mine, I could replace it 5 times for the price of some.
Mike
Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2015 8:16 am
by v8250
Thanks Mike,
That's my thought too. Wondered if anyone had had bad experiences with these...but no replies from the usual guys.
Rgds,
Andrew
Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2015 11:47 am
by SuperV8
I'm using a Delphi one and works fine. I have the later stepper motor system of the 4.0/4.6 engine, nice and neat.
Tom.
Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2015 6:48 pm
by v8250
SuperV8 wrote:I'm using a Delphi one and works fine. I have the later stepper motor system of the 4.0/4.6 engine, nice and neat.
Tom.
Thanks Tom, do you have the suppliers name and any product code?
Rgds,
Andrew
Posted: Wed Mar 25, 2015 2:10 pm
by SuperV8
The one I use is different to the one you linked in the Ebay listing.
Mine had 4 inline pins, yours had 4 in a square.
I actually found that the Range Rover GEMS IACV is similar to the Peugeot/Citroen valves, although as I'm using megasquirt I can't confirm exactly (internally) if they plug and play compatible with the Range Rover but for me using megasquirt it fits and works great for me.
CV10185-12B1
http://www.delphicat.com/WebForms/frmDe ... MLRegion=1#
Actually just checked google and they are priced over £100! so not much help although they are made in Europe from the OE manufacturers.
I work for Delphi (Just to say I have no commercial/financial incentive for recommending them!)
Tom.
Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2015 6:23 pm
by blitzracing
Cheap ones are Chinese copies- some work, some dont. The biggest issue is air leaks around the motor, or the central shaft is about 3 mm longer on some copies. This alters the position of a air regulator cone for a given number of control steps from the ECU, so the idle control can be poor or non existent. Its possible to remove the central shaft with some skull skulduggery and simply shorten it to match the original, then they will work OK.
Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2015 6:56 pm
by v8250
blitzracing wrote:Cheap ones are Chinese copies- some work, some dont. The biggest issue is air leaks around the motor, or the central shaft is about 3 mm longer on some copies. This alters the position of a air regulator cone for a given number of control steps from the ECU, so the idle control can be poor or non existent. Its possible to remove the central shaft with some skull skulduggery and simply shorten it to match the original, then they will work OK.
Thanks Mark, I'll end up buying the correct units for the project. As note, would you be able to set up the car when finished? We have met briefly at the Newbury Car Show last summer - I was with my neighbour Keith Ashby, you had your 'Yellow Peril' at the show.
Rgds,
Andrew
Posted: Tue May 05, 2015 4:15 pm
by seight
Ok, now I have a suspicion that my cheapo one may stick occasionally, did anyone fînd a reasonably priced reputable make hotwire valve?
I went to start my car after a few weeks off and it was a nightmare, I gave the valve a going over, put it back in and it started but the valve makes a bit of a whistle. I'm wondering if it has some kind of inherent leak.
Mike