The V8 Owners Forum -

I am a novice when it comes to cars, but I have made it pretty far on a Series 1 project.

My problem is I am attempting to start the engine for the first time in 30 yrs and there is no combustion happening. The engine is turning over from the starter and there are sparks at the spark plugs but no combustion. I do have a resistor running between the battery and the ignition coil. Is 9V not enough to get the engine started?

I am thinking possibly the spark may not be strong enough? Also it could be timing? Or the engine is losing compression?

Any suggestions?

If the engine is turning and there are sparks at the plugs, that is good. Your battery may be a little low, check the volts and charge it if needed, or toss it for a new one if it's bad.

Now, you need to establish whether the sparks are arriving at the right time for that particular cylinder.
To do that you need to get number 1 cylinder to TDC on the firing stroke and whip off the distributor cap to see where the rotor arm is pointed relative to the plug leads.
I don't have my manual to hand as I am at work in Nigeria, but the book will tell you how to set up/check your ignition timing and the correct sequence for the leads around the distributor cap.

Having satisfied yourself that the ignition timing is good, you then need to have fuel delivered to the cylinders in a good atomised state so it can ignite.
As it's a Buick motor it will have an American carburettor on it, and those are things I know little about, so it's back to the books or a knowledgeable friend to help you establish whether the fuel is getting to the pump, then on to the carb to the right level in the float chamber and via the correct jets into a manifold that has no air leaks and thus on to the cylinders that are correctly timed by the camshaft.........

Once all these conditions are met, combustion will happen and motoring bliss will follow.

Easy, really....

When you say you have a resistor between coil and battery, is the coil the correct one for this? And is the resistor bypassed when cranking?

The coil is correct. The resistor is not bypassed when cranking. That could be the issue...

Going to be out in the garage today checking the timing and such.

I will have to learn about the carburetor as well.

It could well be. The idea of this cold start system is to give full battery volts to the coil when cranking (about 10 volts) and the resistor then takes over to avoid too many volts to the coil running. The starter itself may have a spare terminal to feed battery volts to the coil when cranking.

Got it running! Turned out I was one wire off on the distributor. I did a better job of finding top dead center this morning.

Now I need to figure out the mess of the electrical system the old owner left.

What would be a simple circuit to get the car driving with the alternator and fuel pump (series fuel pump) included (the small engine compartment doesnt allow space for the mechanical fuel pump on most V8s of this time)?

The alternator is easy. Big + connection to battery +, and the small terminal through the battery light to the switched positive on the ignition switch.

Fuel pump presumably just powered from the switched positive on the ignition switch.

Chris.